Chapter 7: This Place Will Change Climbing
Climbing Gold
Duct Tape Then Beer
4.9 • 983 Ratings
🗓️ 21 May 2021
⏱️ 42 minutes
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| 0:00.0 | Alex, you know, we've asked this question of almost all the people we've had on the show. |
| 0:10.1 | Do you remember the first time you went climbing? |
| 0:13.1 | So I don't technically remember the first time I climbed in a gym. |
| 0:15.9 | I mostly remember the photos of me as a five-year-old climbing at the Rocknasium, this climbing gym that opened near my |
| 0:22.5 | home. But I went there once, I believe, on one of my sister's field trips or something random |
| 0:27.2 | through school. And basically, I enjoyed it enough that when a climbing gym opened in Sacramento |
| 0:32.6 | in my hometown, my parents took me because they knew that I liked it from the one time that I'd |
| 0:36.8 | been. My father would take because they knew that I liked it from the one time that I'd been. |
| 0:43.5 | My father would take my sister and I and bring snacks. You know, basically I could make a day of it because if we're going to pay day use and we're going to be there, you know, we're going to like |
| 0:46.7 | be there for the afternoon to hang out, have a good time. So, you know, we'd have like a candy bar |
| 0:50.2 | and some sandwiches and we'd off be at the gym for the afternoon like having this excursion. |
| 0:59.0 | Do you view indoor climbing differently than you do climbing outdoors? I mean, I love going to the climbing gym. I love climbing. And in a lot of ways, the climbing gym is the most distilled and |
| 1:03.6 | sort of simplest version of climbing. You get all the joy of the movement with none of the hassle of |
| 1:08.4 | equipment and worrying about safety and evaluating risk and dealing |
| 1:11.3 | with weather conditions and all those kinds of things. It's interesting, you know, I think if you've |
| 1:15.2 | gotten to the sport, even in like the last 15 years, it's kind of hard to understand, like, |
| 1:21.8 | that the first wave of gyms, they were like pretty, you know, like they had their flavor, right? You know? Going into a |
| 1:29.1 | climbing gym 30 years ago felt dingy for the most part. I mean, most gyms were sort of tight, |
| 1:36.6 | dark, you know, poorly lit and just dirty. You know, they smell bad. They smell like the rental |
| 1:42.8 | shoes. There would be chalk dust in the air, sort of like hard to breathe, hard to see, you know, everything a little more cramp. Like things not quite up to code. You know, all just like a little gross for the most part. And then nowadays, you go into some of the brand new well-built gyms. Like for example, I went into a brand new gym in Austin, Texas, |
| 2:02.9 | and I walked in. It was like this enormous spacious lobby, everything super clean and white, |
| 2:09.0 | with tons of, you know, fresh air and natural light coming in. And I was like, I swear that a robot |
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