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The Splendid Table: Conversations & Recipes For Curious Cooks & Eaters

Bonus: Samin Nosrat's Pasta alle Vongole - extended interview with recipe

The Splendid Table: Conversations & Recipes For Curious Cooks & Eaters

American Public Media

Food, Arts

4.33K Ratings

🗓️ 5 May 2017

⏱️ 8 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Samin Nosrat is the author of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat. Host Francis Lam recently interviewed her for Episode 630: Recipes - the Good, the Bad & the Ugly. [Ed. Note: find their interview here.] Francis had such a good time talking with Samin that their conversation ended up going long while talking about acid balance, and it was edited out of the main episode. Luckily for you, we set it aside for a bonus podcast. In this Splendid Table Sides segment, Nosrat talks about one of her favorite dishes Pasta alle Vongole (Pasta with Clams), and how she makes it with a technique of layering in wine, lemon, and different acids.



Broadcast dates for this episode:


  • May 5, 2017

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Hey, it's Francis here from The Splendid Table.

0:04.9

We call ourselves the show for curious cooks and eaters, and you know, sometimes we're a little bit too curious, and the conversations go on longer than we can really fit in the show.

0:13.0

But we don't want you to miss out on good stuff.

0:15.0

So here's a bonus extended discussion from this week's episode.

0:21.6

Samin Nosrat is author of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat.

0:26.3

And, you know, we had such a good time talking about acid that we went long.

0:30.3

And Samin ended up talking about a favorite dish of both of ours, Linguini with Clams.

0:35.4

And how she makes it with this technique of layering in the

0:38.6

wine and the lemon and all these different acidic things to end up with just a killer

0:43.4

version.

0:45.4

So, Simey, talk to me about using acid and the sort of different techniques for using acid.

0:51.3

I think, you know, the finishing move, squeeze a lemon, you know,

0:54.8

on your plate of fish and chips or whatever. Like, that's a very obvious thing. You know,

1:00.3

shaking the malt vinegar onto your fries, you know, that's a pretty British thing, but like,

1:04.9

that's something that we sort of instinctively get ketchup in your fries. ketchup, obviously,

1:08.3

is sort of tart. So finishing with acid is pretty common,

1:13.2

but you have this theory in the book about cooking acids versus garnishing acids, which are the

1:19.5

finishing acids. So tell me about that and the difference between the two.

1:24.7

Sure. Yeah. I think cooking acids is kind of the secret thing that most people don't necessarily think of that does make a huge difference. And certainly in foods like very long cooked foods, braises and stews and anything that's just going to be simmering for a really long time and gets brown and rich over time, those things

1:46.3

will always skew towards sweet, right? Browning is sweetness and very flavorful. So if we're not

1:53.1

careful to work in acid early on, then those things can become too sweet. So I like to think of it

2:00.1

as you're layering all these different acids in

...

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