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The Interview

André Leon Talley: Race, fashion and Vogue

The Interview

BBC

News, Government, Politics

4.3537 Ratings

🗓️ 24 June 2020

⏱️ 23 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Since George Floyd died in Minneapolis with a white police officer’s knee on his neck, new conversations about racism and discrimination have begun all over the world. It’s not just about policing, it’s about business, sport, culture – every aspect of life. HARDtalk’s Stephen Sackur speaks to André Leon Talley, who was creative director of American Vogue magazine when the fashion industry was almost devoid of senior black men. He’s just written a controversial memoir of his life in what he calls “the chiffon trenches”.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to Hard Talk on the BBC World Service with me, Stephen Sacker. My guest today has lived a life

0:05.9

of extraordinary contrasts, full of colour, elegance and excess in public, but disfigured by deep pain and

0:14.7

isolation in private. André Leon Talley is in every sense a larger than life character,

0:22.6

very tall, somewhat overweight,

0:28.7

and usually seen in public sporting and exotic chafdan. For decades, he was the creative director of American Vogue magazine, a close ally of the magazine's driving force and fashion's most

0:34.4

formidable woman, Anna Wintel. He was one of the very few black men at the top of the fashion industry.

0:40.9

It was the culmination of quite a journey from a childhood raised by his grandmother in North

0:45.9

Carolina, subject to racism and traumatic sexual abuse.

0:50.5

Mr. Talley's memoir of his extraordinary life was recently published, it's coincided with America and the world confronting anew the realities of racism in the wake of the killing of George Floyd and the prominence of the Black Lives Matter campaign. For many years, Mr. Talley avoided the subject which he now puts at the center of his identity. Why?

1:13.9

Well, he joins me now from his home in New York. Andrei Leon Talley, welcome to Hard Talk.

1:19.9

Thank you for having me. You very recently published a memoir, a pretty extraordinary book. It had a very

1:25.9

interesting title, The Chiffon Trenches, which

1:28.9

suggests both elegance and beauty, but also a sense of warfare. Do you feel you've been fighting

1:35.0

some sort of a battle throughout your life? I certainly have. That is an apt description of the

1:41.0

title. It was a title I made up years ago. Before I even wrote the book,

1:44.8

I had made up the title for my first memoir. I didn't use it. I fought a battle, many battles.

1:50.4

I've been in trenches all my life. As an American, African American black man, a descendant of

1:56.2

the enslaved people who were bought to this country 4001 years ago, my daily existence is an uphill battle of survival.

2:04.4

Every black man has to wake up and realize that he is black in a country that promises

2:11.6

him all the equality, equal justice for everyone.

2:16.2

And it's not.

2:21.1

And so therefore, my life is a constant survival in the trenches. I get knocked down, I get up, I get shot down, I get up. Not only in my personal life,

...

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