81. Queen of Animalics, Countess of Indie Fragrance (w/ Indie Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz!)
Perfume Room
Emma Vernon
4.9 • 619 Ratings
🗓️ 24 January 2023
⏱️ 59 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, lovingly referred to as DSH by her customers/fanbase, is in the Perfume Room today! And here’s the thing: WE SIMPLY CANNOT DISCUSS THE AMERICAN INDIE/ARTISAN FRAGRANCE MOVEMENT WITHOUT DISCUSSING DAWN. DSH Perfumes, the brand she launched over 30 years ago, essentially laid the blueprint for all brands and perfumers that followed. Dawn is an absolute delight and we chat about everything from vintage notes and accords that are making big comebacks, to how DSH came to be, what synesthesia really feels like, vintages that feel modern, and Dawn even shares the real gems (both hidden and obvious) of her perfumer’s organ.
FRAGS MENTIONED:
Andrea Maack Pavillion, MFK Oud Satin Mood, Lush Rose Jam, DSH Jacinthes Noires, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Chanel No 5, Guerlain: Shalimar, Jicky, Mitsouko; Parfums de Nicolai, Annick Goutal, Mandy Aftel, Coty Chypre, Guerlain Apres l’Ondee, Coty Ambre Antique (1911), Balenciaga Fleeting Moment, Jacques Fath Iris Gris, Jean Patou, DSH: Emerald Hyrax, Chinchilla, Foxy, Bergamot Trio (Grappa Y Bergamatto, Herbe Bergamot, Potager de Bergamot), Electric Summer, Rose Vert
SHOP THIS EPISODE: shopmy.us/collections/111387
SHOP DSH: dshperfumes.com
FOLLOW DAWN: @dshperfumes
FOLLOW PERFUME ROOM: @perfumeroompod (IG) @emma_vern (TT)
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | Welcome to the perfume room. My Sunday the day today is one of Andrea Mock's brand new releases. It is Pavilion. |
| 0:18.1 | And she gifted me this fragrance a few weeks ago and I had tested it on blotter and really enjoyed it. And today I am skin testing it. And whew, let me say, this is an X-ray. Okay? The projection and siage are strong. So much so, in fact, that I actually just had to run to the grocery store. I was in there for maybe five, maybe 10 minutes. And in that time, I received two compliments on my fragrance. |
| 0:40.6 | So immediately, we're giving it points in the perceivable and compliment getter categories. |
| 0:45.7 | Now, this is a honeyed rose ood fragrance, and I'm going to do a video on this one, so more |
| 0:50.6 | details to come of like exactly what it smells like. But whenever I try a new fragrance, the first thing I always try and do, no, actually, this is the second thing I try and do. The first thing I try and do is guess the notes and get a sense of what it smells like. The second thing I try and do is think of what vibe does this evoke? Is there a celebrity or fictional character that I think of when I wear this? Where and when would I wear this? And there was one thing that immediately popped on my head when I put this on my skin. It was a celebrity, in fact. To me, this perfume is giving me Julia Fox energy. It's edgy, it's cool. It doesn't take itself too seriously. It's a little bit kitsy, but in a sort of intentional and self-aware way. And so as I mentioned, the three notes I |
| 1:28.8 | smell the most are honey, rose, and oud. And if you want to picture like a little van diagram in your |
| 1:32.7 | head, imagine Maison-Francis-Circhon-Utsin-Mood in one corner, then imagine lush rose jam and |
| 1:38.5 | another. And then in the third circle, think of that smell of like Big League Chew or bubble tape. |
| 1:44.0 | You know that very specific |
| 1:45.7 | powdered tape bubblegum smell. This has that like sort of bubblegummy spice to it. And I am just, |
| 1:54.8 | I'm loving it. And I'm actually working on a promotion with Andrea. So if you are interested |
| 1:59.6 | in testing this fragrance, |
| 2:01.7 | let me get back to you. I will give you the exact, I think we're going to do this sometime |
| 2:04.8 | late January, early February, but we are going to do a 20% discount promotion and partner. |
| 2:09.8 | So I am excited to share that with you. Hang tight on that. Let's get to our guest today. |
| 2:14.2 | I am so excited to share this episode with you all. Our guest today is |
| 2:18.4 | often labeled the pioneer of the American indie or artisan fragrance movement. And by her followers |
| 2:23.5 | and customers, she is dubbed the queen of gourmonds, the queen of anomalics, the queen of green. And honestly, |
| 2:29.6 | the queen of everything because she excels in every category. And she is an incredible and prolific perfumer. |
| 2:37.3 | She is the queen of everything and as you'll learn in this episode, she might also be a countess. |
| 2:42.7 | Today we are joined by Don Spencer Hurwitz, creator of the beloved indie brand, D.S.H. perfumes. |
| 2:48.9 | Dawn and I chat about how she serendipitously, but intentionally, |
... |
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