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Surf Splendor

524 - Mark "Papa Sau" Sausen

Surf Splendor

David Lee Scales

Sports

4.8653 Ratings

🗓️ 8 August 2024

⏱️ 71 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In today’s show Californian Mark Sausen explains how he landed on Kauai in 1970, why humility is a gateway to universal acceptance, the biggest concerns with the tech autocrat invasion on island, why it takes 20 years to get Hanalei dialed, and how to surf well into your 60s. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

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0:03.0

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0:07.0

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0:10.0

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0:15.0

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0:17.0

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0:19.0

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0:23.0

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0:25.3

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0:27.1

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0:44.5

Imagine Imagine how different your local beach was 50 years ago.

0:49.6

Perhaps the coastline and the landscape are relatively the same, but what about the land development?

0:50.4

And imagine how much has changed culturally.

0:52.9

It's funny to think that the beach wasn't always a desirable place to live.

0:57.1

In the 50s, 60s, 70s, commerce mainly happened in the cities,

1:01.8

and residential real estate got less expensive the further you got from those jobs.

1:06.3

Of course, all of that is flip-flopped now,

1:09.0

and today's guest has been seated in the nucleus

1:12.2

of perhaps the most radically transformed beach real estate of the past 50 years.

1:18.6

He discovered surfing in California in the 60s and then landed on Kauai in 1970.

1:25.9

We've heard lots of stories of surfers traveling to Hawaii, but it's mainly

1:29.8

Oahu in the 70s. Among them, there was a smaller subset who would then venture to the

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