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Surf Splendor

494 - Darieus Legg: Stoker Machine

Surf Splendor

David Lee Scales

Sports

4.8669 Ratings

🗓️ 12 January 2024

⏱️ 93 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In today's episode filmmaker Darieus Legg extolls the virtues and perils of being raised on a sailboat, explains how valuing external validation is a zero sum game, recounts why creative expression can buoy depression, and shares how his simply pursuit to tell the story of a used surfboard unraveled his life's calling. Enjoy!

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Transcript

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0:00.0

Realwatersports.com, founded in 2001, Real has become the number one surfing and kiteboarding

0:11.1

shop and lesson center in the world. Headquartered in Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, with the

0:18.0

sound directly off their back dock and some of the best surf on the East

0:22.7

Coast, just a few hundred yards off their front doorstep, Real has attracted some of the best

0:28.1

water sports professionals to come and host their camps and retreats. For 20 years now,

0:33.8

they've also partnered with some of the world's best board builders to build out

0:38.0

their inventory and even design proprietary board models that are only available through

0:43.2

real. These make up their 1,500 surfboard inventory boards from the likes of Chris Christensen,

0:51.3

Pat Rosson, John Paisel, Channel Islands, Ryan Sakel, Roger Hines, Maurice Cole,

0:56.7

Ricky Carroll, and many, many more. Plus a blemish section, plus a used section. So those offer

1:04.5

incredible deals. They ship worldwide for one low flat fee. They have epic surfboard review videos, world-class customer service.

1:14.7

For any and all of your water sports needs, they are your one-stop shop.

1:19.6

Realwatersports.com.

1:23.1

Okay, all I need you to say is this is the story about the surfboard, the Stoker machine,

1:29.3

and then just tell us the story. All right, you ready?

1:30.3

Let her rip, Chattie.

1:33.3

This is a Stoker machine, and I'm super amped on the Stoker machine

1:38.3

because...

1:40.3

I'll make it as clear as possible.

1:43.3

For me, objects, they gain personality and they gain character and they gain spirit

1:50.0

and they gain like soul, they gain like mojo, especially surfboards.

1:56.0

A brand new fresh board that you get is you're always stoked.

...

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