473: Tomoko Kuriyama Explains the Burgundy Mindset

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

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4.8 • 1K Ratings

🗓️ 12 September 2019

⏱️ 82 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

Tomoko Kuriyama is a partner in Chanterêves, a micro-négociant based in Burgundy, which she runs with her husband Guillaume Bott.

Tomoko spent over a decade working in wineries in Germany, then moved to Burgundy in France and started Chanterêves. She explains in this interview the differences between Germany and Burgundy in terms of the winemaking and vineyard work. She also discusses the outlook of the growers in each place, and how those differ. Tomoko worked with growers in Germany like Paul Fürst and Peter Jakob Kühn, and visited German growers like Helmut Dönnhoff and Gernot Kollmann. Then in 2005, she did a harvest at Domaine Simon Bize in Burgundy, which subsequently led her to move to Burgundy and start a micro-négociant there. When addressing topics like botrytis, the nature of a fermentation, brettanomyces, sulphur dose, lees contact, reduction, and tannin management, Tomoko compares and contrasts the approaches in Germany with those in Burgundy. By doing so, she explains both at a deep level. Tomoko also describes how winemaking in Germany and in Burgundy have evolved in the years that she has been making wine. For example, she describes the embrace of infusion instead of extraction in the red winemaking of Burgundy, and why it may be so common today. Those looking to better understand the character of German wine and Burgundy will find a lot of revelatory information in this interview.

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Transcript

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0:00.0	And the The interview you're about to hear is with Tomoko Curiyama of Shanterev.
0:20.0	She was born in Japan and worked in wineries in Germany before going to work to harvest in Burgundy at domain Simone Bees.
0:27.0	Chisa Bees of Domaine Simone Bees is also Japanese and had been working in a bank in Tokyo where she met Patrick Bies,
0:34.9	eventually deciding to join him for harvest and then marrying him.
0:38.8	Chisabees described Patrick who passed away in 2013 back in episode 441 of all drink to that.
0:47.0	Here's what she had to say.
0:49.0	What was it like when you first got there in 97?
0:52.0	Patrick call me Stager,
0:55.0	the trainee Stager, because I know nothing.
1:00.0	Harvest was very warm, the weather was very warm. I arrived 17th September. Harvest has already started. I came to 70th,
1:10.3	I came to 70 with very city girls who were close that means the best and the long
1:20.6	pantalon and and Patrick look at me and you have to change the clothes you
1:28.0	cannot walk in the vineyard like this so I changed in the jeans and the t-shirt but because the weather was very nice, very hot and very nice
1:37.8	and everybody looks happy to picking a grapes and very walking very hot but it was the first time for me I started to pick the the grapes but it's very very slow so
1:50.8	Patrick he said who is that lady?
1:54.3	Fired.
1:56.3	So immediately I was fired.
2:01.5	And I took only the pictures for everybody. I did like a cameraman, but it's a nice memory now.
2:10.0	Because Patrick had a sense of humor, He was kind of a funny guy.
2:13.0	Yes, he said like that, but I'm sure that he think I'm very tired maybe after the long trip.
2:20.0	I'll drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the beverage business. I'm
2:25.6	Levy Dalton I'm Erin Scala and here's our show today. Oh, you know, you know,
	...

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