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I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

474: Rod Berglund Is Not Just A Swan Clone

I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

Levi Dalton

Sonoma, Levi Dalton, Australia, Napa Valley, Austria, Author, Piemonte, Tuscany, Winemaker, Germany, Loire Valley, Food, Portugal, Hobbies, Champagne, Spain, White Wine, Bordeaux, Red Wine, Vineyard, Journalist, Personal Journals, Arts, Leisure, Society & Culture, Feedpodcast, Restaurant, Grape, Burgundy, Terroir, Interview, Sicilia, Conversation, Sommelier, Wine, Wine Business

4.81K Ratings

🗓️ 1 October 2019

⏱️ 73 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Rod Berglund and his family own Joseph Swan Vineyards in Sonoma County, California, where Rod is also the winemaker.

Rod explains how he first became interested in wine, and what led him to found his own winery in the late 1970s. He also discusses how he met winemaker Joe Swan, who would eventually become his father-in-law. Rod conveys how Joe in many ways stood apart from his California winermaking contemporaries of the 1970s and 1980s, making choices influenced by the changes Joe had seen in Burgundy, France. Those included the use of French oak barrels, an increasing interest in whole cluster, and a focus on low yields from the vineyard. As Rod explains it, Joe's approach to winemaking was a simple one, but he also took seriously the goal of making great wines of limited production. This extended to Joe's approach to Zinfandel, which he made with an eye to high quality, rather than assuming the grape variety had to have a bulk wine destiny. Rod touches on some of the other people that influenced Joe's vision of wine, including André Tchelistcheff, Jacques Seysses, and Kermit Lynch. This episode also features a clip from IDTT episode 460, wherein Joel Peterson speaks about his experiences working with Joe Swan in the 1970s. As the interview progresses, Rod details the changes he has made at the winery and in the vineyard since Joe Swan passed away, explaining the logic of each adjustment. This conversation also touches on topics like the "Swan clone," extended maceration, whole cluster use, tannin management, malolactic conversion for Chardonnay, the specifics of growing grapes in the Russian River Valley, and the makeup of old Zinfandel vineyards. Those wanting to understand the transition of California winemaking practice from the 1960s to now will benefit tremendously from hearing this episode.

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Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

And the The interview you'll hear later in this episode is with Rod Bergland, who had already been making wine at other California wineries when he married into Joseph Swan's family in the 1980s and began to take on

0:26.0

more responsibility over the wines made at Swan. Eventually Joe Swan passed away and

0:31.6

Bergland and his family oversee the Swan Winery today.

0:36.1

Back in episode 460 of all drink to that, I interviewed Joel Peterson who worked with

0:41.2

Joe Swan for a few years and in 1970s. Here's what Joel had to say about

0:45.8

Joe Swan when I asked him in episode 460.

0:50.4

I would go up to his house on the weekends and all my vacations and we built his

0:56.8

steel building and I helped him sort of equip it and I thought okay well this is a chance to learn something about

1:04.3

making wine and he was planning a vineyards so I learned about planting vineyards

1:09.4

and training vines and spent from 1972 until 1976 working with Joe in all my spare time still did my work at the hospital.

1:21.6

How old was Joe at that time?

1:23.8

He had retired.

1:26.4

So he probably was in his early 60s.

1:29.8

You know, they retire you in the airlines when you're 55 and he'd been retired for some time by the time I met

1:36.0

him so I would say he's probably 62 63 at the time he was a tall imposing man I these piercing blue eyes and this chalk of white hair. I mean he was a

1:50.0

handsome man. He was an artist painter. He would do landscapes. He had a

1:56.2

self-portrait of himself hanging in the living room. He loved wine. He loved

2:01.5

food. He loved working in the vineyards. He'd been doing this for a long time.

2:07.0

He ran into under Chelechelf somewhere early in his history. I'm not sure exactly how that happened but at one

2:15.7

point Joe and I are doing a racking and and June comes down to the wine

2:20.9

rins you got a call, and Joe says,

2:22.7

you know, don't take calls when I'm working.

...

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