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Surf Splendor

358 - Black Sand Surf

Surf Splendor

David Lee Scales

Sports

4.8653 Ratings

🗓️ 3 March 2021

⏱️ 50 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Today we reassess the Aloha Spirit, examine the inherit reward ingrained in the act of surfing, and analyze who is allowed privilege to that benefit; all through the lens of a very public incident that occurred northside of the Manhattan Beach pier on President's Day morning. Brick and Gage Crismond of Black Sand Surf and Ryan Harris of Earth Technologies joins us in conversation. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

Congratulations to Derek Riggs. He is the winner of the album Twinsman that we've been talking about this month that I reviewed with Matt Parker. I've had a little bit of back and forth with Derek through email regarding this, and he seems like such an appropriate winner. He's been a long time listener of the podcast, and he's super gracious. So thrilled for him. He is taking delivery of that board on Friday.

0:21.6

We'll have more giveaways throughout the year.

0:23.6

We're aiming to do one of these every other month.

0:25.3

So stay tuned for that.

0:31.5

I want to introduce you to Brick and Gage.

0:36.3

What's up?

0:36.9

What's up?

0:37.6

What's up, boys? Gage, very nice to meet you to Brick and Gage. What's up? What's up? What's up, boys?

0:39.4

Gage, very nice to meet you.

0:41.4

Good to meet you both.

0:43.1

They've been surfing since August, so only about seven months now.

0:46.7

And I've really got to say that they've progressed pretty amazingly.

0:50.4

There's a few clips on their Instagram accounts of them surfing.

0:53.9

They're getting up to their feet every time they're going down the line, even squeezing off a couple of wiggles.

0:59.9

And I started surfing at the age of 12, and that was after a full decade of being in the water, catching waves on a bodyboard.

1:06.6

And I don't really remember how quickly I progressed, but I doubt that it was as fast as these guys.

1:11.6

It seems like it took me years to get anywhere near competence.

1:15.6

And even still, I feel like I'm closer to a novice than I am an expert.

1:19.6

But that's also kind of what I love about surfing, the inability to master it,

1:24.6

and the boundless reward and benefit you receive in return

1:28.3

that is in equal measure to what you invest into it.

1:32.3

And at only seven months in, Brick really seems to get that part.

...

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