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Surf Splendor

350 - Jon LaLanne: Part One

Surf Splendor

David Lee Scales

Sports

4.8669 Ratings

🗓️ 29 December 2020

⏱️ 65 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Board builder Jon LaLanne joins us to discuss how obstacles become ladders, the value of shame, the Gemini board design, and how to carve a unique life path as a son to a father who is larger than life. Enjoy.

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Transcript

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0:00.0

My dad, he had his television show. I'm in Pepperdine. I came out of nowhere, man. I wanted to serve so badly. And I struggled at it. It took me over a year to learn to stand up.

0:21.8

It was horrifying. I couldn't figure it out. So you were living in Hollywood? Hollywood.

0:27.6

Surfing Malibu?

0:28.6

Serving with Clark Gable's son John, whose brother was Bunker Spreckles. Yeah. And we stole

0:34.5

bunkers lightning bolt and took it on the bus to Santa Monica and if he were here now

0:39.4

he'd kick our you know what's yeah right so we would go and hang out at malibu and we were like 15 16

0:46.5

right and danny hilton paris his uncles right bobby darrens son we all serve and. And mom took me to Hawaii when I was nine. I stood up. Well, anybody can stand up in Hawaii, right? When they took me to Santa Monica, I mean, I was a laughing stock. I said, well, I know how to surf. I'll go with you guys. And they were just, they gave me, I was humiliated, right?

1:11.7

And then we went down to Tim Disney's house in Capistrano, Walt Disney's grandson.

1:19.4

And I finally, finally got it.

1:22.6

It was through repetition, repetition.

1:24.7

I was at third point, and this is in like 1978 or nine.

1:30.4

I paddled up to third point.

1:31.8

First thing I see, I get in someone's way.

1:36.1

Get the fuck out of here.

1:37.6

Get the fuck.

1:38.3

Don't come back until you learn to surf.

1:41.9

It was Alan Sarlo.

1:43.4

But there was another guy out there who served with his shorts

1:48.1

around his neck, naked, Mickey. And he told me, don't ever come back until you learned

1:55.8

to surf. You could not go to third point and be a kook. You can't have a surf school out there.

2:01.8

You had to earn your spot there.

2:04.8

And I, you know what it did?

...

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