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Perfume Room

187. OLIVIER CRESP ~ How to Create a Blockbuster Fragrance (over, and over, and over again).

Perfume Room

Emma Vernon

Fashion & Beauty, Arts

4.9618 Ratings

🗓️ 23 September 2025

⏱️ 54 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Olivier Cresp, DSM-Firmenich Master Perfumer, Founder of Akro by Oliver Cresp, and literal inventor of the gourmand (!) is BACK in the Perfume Room! (AN HONOR!)

Today, he reflects on his oeuvre including his signature, palette, and unique approach to perfumery. We discuss how new advances in technology will impact past and future creations, AI and its role in perfumery, how his creative approach differs for his own brand versus client work, and of course we discuss the newest Akro launch: Crush!

WATCH THE FULL EPISODE ON SUBSTACK THIS FRIDAY!

FRAG MENTIONED:

Akro Haze, D&G Light Blue, Akro Crush (SOTD), Light Blue (2025), Akro Rise, Mugler Angel, Akro: Smile, Glow, Bake

TRY CRUSH! (10% LuckyScent orders $40+ w/ code perfumeroom10)


Transcript

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0:00.0

Welcome to the perfume room.

0:13.0

I cannot believe our guest this week.

0:15.5

And I cannot believe that it is his second time on perfume room.

0:20.0

We are in the presence of true perfumery greatness

0:23.3

once again with D.S.M. Fermanish master perfumer and creator of Acro by Olivier Crespe.

0:30.0

Olivia Crespe. Oh, you love your gourmet perfume? Guess what? Olivier invented them.

0:36.8

Yeah, before he created Mugler Angel in 1992, this entire

0:41.9

category of perfume simply did not exist. So Olivier, on behalf of every person listening to this

0:49.0

podcast, thank you. Olivia didn't just do this one time. He has created multiple industry-shifting fragrances.

0:58.3

Yes, there's Angel, but there's also D&G light blue, Penhalligan's juniper slime, one of my personal faves.

1:04.0

Yassal Monperry and Black Opium, Nina Ritchie Mina, Jivanchi Gentleman, Noah by Cashirelle, Kenzoa Moore, Keialli Yom Pistachio Gelato.

1:13.0

I mean, I am really just getting started.

1:15.8

In 2012, he was honored with the title Chevalier Desartes de Letters, and in 2018, he won

1:22.5

the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Perfumer Achievement Award.

1:26.8

All this to say, there is a lot of ground to cover.

1:30.3

And if you haven't listened to his first episode on Perfume Room, it is episode 48.

1:34.9

And I will link it in the Spotify description of this episode so that you can access it easily.

1:40.3

Now, if you listen to Perfume Room somewhere other than Spotify, just search for that episode, Episode 48, or you can just search Perfume Room, Olivia Cresp, and you will find it.

1:48.5

It is Perfume Room canon, and we cover a lot of his backstory and, of course, Angel, and his process of creating Acro alongside his daughter, and Ais, all in that episode.

1:59.5

And today is a really fun one. First, we discuss Akro's newest lunch,

2:04.7

Crush, which I am here to officially report is a banger. Crush has just enough Rose to not feel

2:12.4

too gourmand, and it has just enough Gorman support to not feel like a true rose solo floor.

...

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