104. Gourmands Aren’t All A Piece of Cake (w/ Perfumer Hilde Soliani)
Perfume Room
Emma Vernon
4.9 • 619 Ratings
🗓️ 25 July 2023
⏱️ 45 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Perfume Royality Hilde Soliani, La Regina dei Gourmand//the Queen of Gourmands, is in the Perfume Room today! At first glance, you might say dessert scents are her bread and butter, but Hilde would be quick to tell you that *bread and butter scents* are also her bread and butter. And for that matter, so are her fish, oyster, and cheese fragrances. Her title bears great responsibility, and in Hilde's kingdom, no food group is left behind. We discuss her inspiration, her fragrance philosophy, becoming a perfumer at age 40, and lots of other magical musings along the way.
FRAGS MENTIONED:
Hermès Voyage D’Hermès, Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling, Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous la Pluie, Akro Haze, Hilde Soliani: Hot Milk, Fraaagola Saalaaata, Stelle di Ghiaccio, Eau de Cuisine, Miss Tranchant, Bell'Antonio, Revlon Charlie, YSL Rive Gauche, Roachas Eau de Rochas, YSL Opium, Shiseido Tactics, Hilde Soliani: Buonissimo, Tulipano Rosso, Io, 24.9.11, Ti Amo Iris
SHOP HILDE SOLIANI: luckyscent.com (10pr for 10% off orders $40+)
FOLLOW HILDE: @iltuotulipano @senshilde || www.hildesoliani.com
FOLLOW PERFUME ROOM: @perfumeroompod (IG) @emma_vern (TT)
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | Welcome to the perfume room. My send of the day today is Voyage d'Armes from Hermes, and I just |
| 0:15.9 | ordered this from FragranceNet. Now, this one has been high on my try list for a while, |
| 0:20.0 | and it's not new. It came out in |
| 0:21.5 | 2010, which was 13 years ago. I don't know where time goes, but the perfumer is the incredible |
| 0:27.6 | Jean-Claude Elena, who may or may not be relevant later on in this episode. You know I love |
| 0:33.8 | that sort of skin scent plus category, your skin but better plus some sort of |
| 0:37.8 | interesting hook and not only is Voyage de Arme as that, but I purchased it because of its frequent |
| 0:43.5 | comparisons to two of my other favorites within this category, those sense being Panhaling's |
| 0:48.5 | Juniper Sling and Frederick Mall, Angelique, Sula, Plouis. Now between those two, I would say I prefer juniper sling because I find it lasts longer. |
| 0:57.0 | Angelique, while beautiful, is very ephemeral on my skin. |
| 1:01.0 | Anyway, I saw that the 30-mill-Ode-toilette was on fragrance net for $57, and I did not hesitate. |
| 1:08.0 | So let me compare this one to the other two. |
| 1:10.0 | Voyage d'Armes feels much more aromatic, even a little camphoricious when compared to either of the others. It's a fresh, spicy, musky scent. There's a strong cardamom and lemon note. And I feel like the best way to explain the difference would be that whereas juniper sling feels more like kitchen spice, like sort of nutmeggy. |
| 1:29.6 | There is a cardamined note in both, but I don't know. |
| 1:34.5 | Juniper sling feels much more kitcheny to me versus Voyage de Jhmez feels much more like garden spice to me. |
| 1:35.9 | If you put like acro haze on one end and juniper sling on the other, to be clear, Voyage |
| 1:41.0 | de Jhmez is way, way closer to juniper sling, but there's something, like I said, |
| 1:47.6 | like aromatic about it. The dry downs are pretty comparable. I would say juniper slings is a little |
| 1:53.3 | bit more sweet because of those cherry and brown sugar notes that come out, and it almost feels |
| 1:57.4 | like Voyage de Hermes sort of dries down to how juniper sling opens. |
| 2:02.8 | They're both excellent. |
| 2:04.1 | I think I prefer juniper sling a tad more, but I will say for $57, I am absolutely thrilled. |
... |
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