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History Extra podcast

Zoot suits, mashers & New Romantics: the evolution of the dandy

History Extra podcast

Immediate Media

History

4.34.5K Ratings

🗓️ 12 August 2025

⏱️ 27 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

From zoot suiters and mods, to mashers and Congolese sapeurs, since the early 19th century, fashionable male subcultures have popped up across the globe. Speaking to Ellie Cawthorne, Peter Andersson examines how the idea of the 'dandy' has evolved over time, and argues that the idea of dressing well was not limited to the elites. (Ad) Peter Andersson is the author of The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour (Oxford University Press, 2025). Buy it now from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dandy-Peoples-History-Sartorial-Splendour/dp/0198882432/?tag=bbchistory045-21&ascsubtag=historyextra-social-histboty. The HistoryExtra podcast is produced by the team behind BBC History Magazine. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Transcript

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0:00.0

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0:32.6

Welcome to the History Extra podcast, fascinating historical conversations from the makers of BBC History Magazine.

0:44.3

Zooters, mods, mashes and suppers. Since the early 19th century, fashionable male subcultures have popped up across the globe.

0:55.1

And in his new book The Dandy, a people's history of sartorial splendour,

1:00.1

Peter Anderson examines how the idea of the Dandy has evolved over time,

1:05.7

arguing that the idea of dressing well was not limited to the elites.

1:10.6

I spoke to him to find out more about Britain's

1:13.6

first male fashion icon and why wearing a baggy suit in the 1940s could have you mistaken for a rioter.

1:23.2

Thank you so much for joining me on the podcast, Peter, to talk all about the history of dandyism.

1:28.9

So for anyone who's not familiar with that term or maybe has heard it, but doesn't really know what we're talking about, what's your definition of a dandy?

1:37.5

There is a common definition of the dandy, but I think I should say that in my book, I have sort of my own definition of it, because I write

1:45.5

not about the type of dandies that most scholars have written about before.

1:50.3

I write about ordinary men from the lower stratus of society who try to be dandies.

1:55.8

They have been called different things in different decades, in different periods.

2:00.3

But I think there is a running thread

2:02.3

going through from the early 19th century up until at least the late 20th century. One of the things

2:08.4

that I have as a sort of running thread is that they all wore suits. They all wore a sort of tie

2:14.6

and so on. That's the sort of basic uniform of it.

...

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