4.6 • 16.4K Ratings
🗓️ 19 May 2021
⏱️ 25 minutes
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| 0:00.0 | Hi, I'm Rachel Hollis and this is your Faves Faves. |
| 0:19.0 | Laird Hamilton. |
| 0:21.0 | I was watching a documentary recently and it was the first time that I understood that |
| 0:25.2 | there are, and please correct me if I'm saying this wrong, but there are, for lack of a |
| 0:30.5 | better word, famous waves in different parts of the world, is that correct? |
| 0:35.8 | And that the different waves, depending on where you are in the world, are sort of good |
| 0:39.6 | for different things, like if you want to serve a barrel versus if you want to do aerials, |
| 0:44.0 | is that accurate information? |
| 0:46.4 | Or am I, did I hear that wrong? |
| 0:48.2 | Is there some accuracy to that? |
| 1:00.3 | Absolutely. |
| 1:01.3 | I grew up in Hawaii, of course, and the wave that had the most influence on me as a child |
| 1:13.4 | was a wave called Bonsai Pipeline, which is on the North River Wahoo, which is at the |
| 1:18.0 | time when I was growing up, was considered the most dangerous wave in the world. |
| 1:22.2 | And also this kind of, it was where all the great surfers from all over the world came |
| 1:26.3 | to kind of test their skills. |
| 1:28.4 | Since that time, there's a wave in Tahiti called Teahupo that has taken over from Pipeline |
| 1:35.2 | and that breaks on a barrier reef and it's a left which, you know, waves breaking different |
| 1:41.9 | directions. |
| 1:43.1 | So a right is a wave that if you're right-handed, you would face the wave and go to your left |
| 1:52.7 | and a left is a wave that you would face and you would go to the right with your, you |
| 1:59.2 | would face it with your left hand. |
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