4.3 • 2.6K Ratings
🗓️ 31 December 2022
⏱️ 51 minutes
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0:00.0 | The dark is rising from the BBC World Service. |
0:03.8 | The powers of the dark are reaching out now steadily and stealthily all over this world. |
0:10.0 | Find out more at the end of this podcast. |
0:23.4 | Surfing connection with the ocean in the most powerful way I know. |
0:28.0 | Just you and your surfboard, harnessing the immense power of a wave, |
0:32.0 | taking you on the most exhilarating ride of your life. |
0:36.0 | But it can be dangerous, life threatening too. |
0:39.0 | So I paddle out, all of a sudden the horizon got dark, got black, with these huge set. |
0:46.0 | Lin Boyer, former world champion. |
0:49.0 | And I started scratching and there's no way I can make it past the set. |
0:53.0 | And the first wave broke way in front of me and I dove under, got smashed around, |
1:00.0 | came up the second one, same thing. |
1:02.0 | And by the third one I was so exhausted, it pushed me so far down that it was dark. |
1:07.0 | I couldn't see which wave was up. |
1:09.0 | And I started panicking, somehow I went the right way and I got up and I went... |
1:14.0 | And I saw all these stars and that was the closest to drowning that ever happened. |
1:25.0 | Welcome to women pro surfers battling the waves on the BBC World Service. |
1:31.0 | I'm Patty Paniccia and I was a pro surfer back in the 1970s. |
1:35.0 | Proliminaries showed it patty Paniccia. |
1:38.0 | So a couple of big names did not make it, but one who did was Lin Boyer. |
1:44.0 | Lin Boyer and I were part of a surfing revolution at a time when 1960s attitudes toward women as sex objects were still powerful. |
1:53.0 | There were surf posters you could get, you know. |
... |
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