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You're built to win it. Welcome to snoozecast. The podcast is designed to help you fall asleep. Find us on Snewscast.com and if you enjoy our show, please share us with a friend. If you would like to get an email once a week with upcoming sleep stories and other news, subscribe to the Snewsletter at Snewscast.com. This episode is brought to you by Little Experimenting. Tonight we'll read about gardening in window boxes and also planning the arrangement of outdoor flower gardens from the 1903 book The Flower Garden by Aida Di Benet. Windowboxes offer a way to transform an ordinary window cell into a miniature garden, filling homes with color, fragrance, and seasonal beauty. Benet provides timeless advice on selecting the right plants, arranging them for the best effect, and ensuring they thrive in their elevated, confined environment. Her work reflects the Edwardian era enthusiasm for ornamental gardening while offering insights that remain just as relevant for modern gardeners looking to brighten their windows with living blooms. Let's get cozy. Close your eyes. Relax your body into the softness of your bed. Now take a few deep breaths. side window boxes. Outside Window Boxes The outside window box is a thing of beauty, if well cared for. A disfigurement, if neglected. So greatly does it add to the cheerfulness and apparent size of the rooms under the windows of which it is placed that I should advise its use whenever practical. One of my most pleasant recollections is a window box full of heliotrope under a sitting room window, filling the room so full of perfume that going into it in the early morning was like stepping into a garden of fragrance. Window boxes do well in any window not shaded by porches and the plants best suited to the light may be selected. Many plants too tender to bed out in the open ground may be trusted to the window-box. Fuchsia's, ferns, fancy-leaved colladiums, and various tuberous rooted begonias like the Silver spotted,, known as Angels Wing, are all lovely in the windowbox. Rupra and most of the begonias do admirably in a north window. For windows facing the street, where effect is principally sought, bright geraniums, heliotropes, and similar plants are preferable, provided there is sufficient sunshine to bring out all their rich coloring. The fancy-leaved colladiums may be used where bright effect is sought in a north window. The box is used for this purpose should be as ample as possible, the full length of the window casing outside and at least a foot wide and deep. They should be made of inch boards closely fitted together so that the sides shall not warp and allow the water to run through too freely. Washing out and exhausting the soil. A hole may be made in the bottom at one end and provided with a plug for the escape of surplus water during continued rains. A piece of broken crock or other drainage must be placed over the hole on the inside of the box to prevent the earth working in and obstructing the free passage of water. The hot air of summer will shrink the earth away from the sides of the box, leaving a channel for the water to escape without properly soaking the soil. But if the surface of the soil is kept open and the center left a little lower than the sides, This will be prevented. A little experimenting will show just how much water is needed to wet the soil properly without letting it run away. And this amount should be used daily during dry weather.

Only as many plants as will do well in the limited space, a four square feet should be planted in the window boxes. Five erect plants and three vines are enough for a box of that size, and even these may need attention before the season is over, especially if in south or west windows. North or east boxes will usually keep their contents fresh until frost. But a west or south light makes great demands upon the vitality of of plants confined within the limited area.

And it is a good plan to leave geraniums and similar flowers in their pots that they may be easily exchanged for others when they grow shabby, cutting back and repotting the old ones for winter blooming if removed not later than August. A better plan is to have two boxes, starting one in the house in March, that it may be ready to place as soon as danger of frost is passed, and the second one in June, that it may be ready to replace the first when needed. For the latter, the vine started in the house or hotbed in April will be available. Many flowers from seed will have reached sufficient size to be used for the second box. Plants that have been carried over from another season or purchased from the florist will be necessary for the first boxes. There is no more beautiful vine for a window box than the Morandia. It drapes more gracefully than any other vine I know, unless it be the wild cucumber, which attaches itself to the window screen in wreaths of exuberant bloom, drooping far below the window box, and making a lovely background for scarlet, during hymns. Its only fault is that it will grow shabby before the season is over. When it had better be pulled up and replaced by fresher vine that has been grown in a pot for the purpose and can be slipped

into place without checking its growth. Outside window boxes Perhaps no plant is more satisfactory for a south or west windowbox than a good journey in him.

Either the dark, rich, vermillion of the essay nut, or the vivid scarlet of the brewing. Both of these appear to be better advantage when contrasted with white flowers. Campford uranium is excellent, being a freer bloomer than other white geraniums. And the giant white and tyrannum is especially vivid. white petun white, flocks, dramundi are also good. Heliotrop is charming with scarlet and white. The large, flowered ivy geraniums are the best and do finally in east and west window boxes. While the variegated variety makes a lovely mass of pendant foliage for an east or north box. Trailing fuchsia, Japanese morning glory, wild cucumber all do well on the north side of the house. Mr. Shams make an attractive window box, but need abundant root room, and not more than three plants should be put in a box having three other erect plants. glories on the contrary require but little room and one may be put in each end of a north window box and trained over the window. If strings are provided they will reach the roof by mid-summer, blooming every step of the way. Other vines may be grown in the front of the box, the centrosima, when it can be persuaded to grow. It is a charming vine for a north-earthed window, but it is a very shy plant, hard to get started, and refusing to grow in an un-congenial situation, though quite a hearty when once established. The best support for the window box is the wooden bracket made by nailing to the side of the house. 13 inches below the window sill. A strip of inch stuff the length of the window frame and 3 or 4 inches wide. On top of this and at right angles to it, nail three similar strips of wood one foot long. The outer ends resting on strips of wood attached to the sill of the house. These last strips must have the ends beveled sufficiently to fit snugly against the baseboards and the bottom of the horizontal pieces and be securely nailed together. If the measurements are carefully taken, the box will slip into place on the supports just under the windowsill. Paint boxes and supports to match the house. Window boxes may be kept in the cellar through the, or emptied, dried, and stored in a dry place according to their contents. Always empty and thoroughly scald the boxes before using. In stocking window boxes, never put plants received by mail directly into them. They should be ordered early enough to pot and become established, the pots full of roots. By the time they are needed for the window boxes, when they may be slipped into place, without disturbing the roots or checking their growth. Placed at once in the boxes in a sunny position, they would probably be lost. Very fair window boxes may be obtained at trifling expense by using the boxes in which grass Scythes are packed, which may be purchased at the hardware store for five or ten cents a piece. These are not as wide nor as deep as one could wish, but have the advantage of cheapness and availability. Preference should be given to those having close seams. If warped or open, they must be tightened by driving in extra nails or nailing thin strips of wood over the cracks on the inside. The longevity of the window box is greatly lengthened by keeping the windows above them, especially on the south and west sides of the house, open as much of the time as possible. If the sun beats on the glass of the closed window and is reflected on the plants. It is literally confining them between two fires and they cannot be expected to come through un-injured. Let the wind sweep through and over them and they will stand any reasonable amount of heat or moisture. This is the reason plants do better in the open than when placed against the side of a wall or building. The air must not only have free access, but pass beyond carrying off noxious vapors and excess of moisture. When there is garden room for their cultivation, I do not approve of growing annuals in window boxes. It is better to reserve these for choice plants, but when the window box must be the only garden and economy must be studied.

Very pretty boxes may be arranged with sweet elism, scarlet, white, or pink, Flockstromondi, Scarlet, Pink, or White, for Venus.

The various colored antirinums, Petunias, Mistershams, The Blue Facilia, An agiratum, Wild cucumber, and the finer, foliage fancy gourds. By using the scythe boxes and starting the plants from seed, very pretty boxes may be We got an up from 35 to 50 cents a pair that will give as much pleasure as more expensive ones. The more flowers are cut from these boxes of annuals, the more freely they will bloom and no seeds should be allowed to form. A little liquid manure should be given all window boxes, bologna's, once a week during the summer, and all withered flowers and leaves promptly removed. Nip back weak, straggly growths and encourage the plants to grow stocky and the vines to branch freely. The location and arrangement of the garden. A south slope is the ideal situation for a garden, since it ensures good draining and the greatest amount of sunlight. The garden should also be open to the east and west if possible, that it may have the benefit of the morning and evening sun. Shelter on the north is desirable as north winds are disastrous to roses and tender perennials. Partial shelter on the west should be given in localities where the prevailing winds of winter are from that quarter. The south side of a building were even of a high fence with trees and tall shrubs at a little distance to the west is best. Though any site that receives abundant sunshine through the morning and early afternoon may be He made satisfactory by planting trees and shrubs on the north and west. The garden should always be at the rear or side of the dwelling, never in front or along the street. The reasons for this are obvious. The garden proper is intended to furnish cut flowers, to provide a place of experiment with new varieties, and to grow hardy perennials, which have certain seasons of bloom, and cannot may depend upon at all times, for ornamental effect. One should feel free to work there unobserved of the pass or by, and this is impossible in a garden close to the street. Again, while the permanent garden is beautiful in itself, it is not suitable for the lawn and greatly marries the effect of the grounds. Beds of ornamental foliage plants appropriately placed add much to the beauty of a well-couple lawn, but should be carefully considered in relation to its size and the trees and treibery already there. a small city lawn, not more than one such bed should be allowed. On a large lawn, three will give a better effect than a great number, especially if care is taken to have them all visible from different points on the lawn and from the house. isolating them by so placing that clumps of trees or shubbery intervene, but using these rather as a background for the beds. It is from the hammock that the amateur gardener will most enjoy the results of her labor. It is there he or she will find leisure to watch the growth of plants, to compare the effect of different varieties, to note where they may improve the vista by a different arrangement next year to observe the effects of locality of the afternoon and morning sun and all the plant growth that escaped them when busy with the trowel and watering pot so that the view from it should be first consideration. A very good arrangement is to put a large bed of risenness on the most remote space of the lawn. Four plants in the center of a 12-foot bed. Surrounded with the row of salvia splendants edged with little gem-sweet alism. Near an eight-foot bed of the large flowered cannas may be introduced and edged with colladiums, while a six-foot bed of ornamental grasses will make a satisfactory third. Such beds are rich in tropical effects and give more distinction to a lawn than any other case of plants. Where there is an ample water supply, these beds may be elevated a few inches above the lawn to make them more conspicuous. But where the seasons are hot and dry, then water must be carried. It is better to set them slightly lower than the lawn, so that all the available moisture may be utilized. A few inches of margin must be allowed around the edges of beds on the lawn so that the mower may run close to the beds without injuring the plants. Though even then it will be best to use the lawn shears. Such beds call for carefully trimmed lawns. the grass can be properly cared for, it is better to exclude flowers from this part of the grounds entirely. As it is time, thrown away to plant flowers which will presently be hidden by tall grass and weeds A neglected lawn involves an amount of labor in the semi-annual cleaning of spring and fall out of all proportion to the results. While a lawn while cut and raked is more easily cared for with each recurring year. The grass growing clean and straight and the rake and mower passing freely and easily through it. The scheme for a permanent garden must be decided by the size and shape of the plot of ground at command. In a regular plot, sometimes lending itself to more graceful arrangement than a symmetrical one. The operation of laying out the beds will be the same, whatever the shape. Having decided the boundaries of the garden, it will be best to mark the outlines by accord attached to pegs driven into the ground. The sod should then be removed from the entire area by cutting just below the crown of the grass. Two and one half or three feet should first be allowed for walks. The beds may be placed to advantage by finding the center of the plot and driving

their stake to which a cord is loosely attached. Mark off on this cord half the diameter of the bed desired for center of plot, four, five, or six feet.

Fasten to the cord at this point, a sharp stick, and describe the circle on the ground. In this way, the garden walks may be outlined in the inner and outer circles of the round beds. The oval beds must be measured off and defined by stakes driven into the ground. The width of the beds should be not more than can be easily reached across for weeding and cultivating. Where the soil has not previously been cultivated, it must be spated at least two feet deep and thoroughly pulverized. All roots and stones should be removed. If the soil is clay or gravelly, it will be best to remove it entirely and to fill in with soil better adapted to the growth of flowers. or the surface may be removed for several inches and laid aside, then the poor sub-soil should be dug out and removed, and the surface soil replaced in the bottom of the bed with a liberal quantity of old, well-routed manure. The bed should then be filled to its original level with leaf mold or muck. If all the original soil is to be retained, remove the top soil for top dressing.

Spade the manure into the subsoil and replace the surface soil. In ground which has not been cultivated, the surface soil is rich in hummus or leaf which furnishes food in its most available form for the young plant, and should therefore be left where the plant can use it and not be turned under as is usually done. making beds that have been worked before and need no enriching, excellent results may be secured by pushing the long spade into the ground, the whole length of its blade, and twisting it around. This breaks up and mellows the ground more effectively than turning it over, while it leaves the good soil on top where the young plant roots can get it. Later, when the plant grows sturdier and stretches out its roots in search of food. The manure enriched earth in the bottom of the bed will attract and draw them down into its cool, moist depths away from the heat and drought of the surface. But the young plants must have mellow nourishing soil from the start, where they will perish before they reach this storehouse provided for the mature plant. Never prepare a garden by turning under the sod. I'm well aware that this, together with turning under the surface soil, will be the method of the average man who has had some experience farming, but the flower grower cannot always follow farming methods with safety.

After spating the beds, it will be well to enclose them with some such permanent material as brick, cement curbing or narrowboards. sighting, set in the ground and inch or more, an held in place on each side by pegs of wood, whole dragon spokes which can usually be found at the blacksmiths are excellent for this, make the cheapest and most quickly constructed enclosure, and may be quite covered with such border plants

as dusty miller or flocks, subulata. The boards may be given a coat of dull green paint,

or shingle stain before being put in place.