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The Sporkful

Why A Famous Chef Asked A Critic To Leave His Restaurant

The Sporkful

SiriusXM Podcasts

Arts

4.63.8K Ratings

🗓️ 16 June 2025

⏱️ 36 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Chefs tend to have a love-hate relationship with restaurant critics, who have the power to make or break them. Critics try to enter restaurants undetected, while chefs try to spot them, then ensure a flawless experience and a good review. This week, we have a story about one critic’s very unusual encounter with a famous chef, and the bombshell article that followed.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

When Soleil went, I think in 2019, they wheeled out a little cart for like a table-side presentation.

0:10.2

And so Le was kind of confused because they hadn't seen it wheeled out to any other table.

0:14.8

And then they bring out a bong, a big glass hand-blown bong. And so it writes and there bes, you know, the kind you use to smoke drugs.

0:26.9

And it's filled with mushroom soup.

0:34.6

This is the Spork Full. It's not for foodies. It's for eaters. I'm Dan Pashman. Each week on our show,

0:40.3

we obsess about food to learn more about people. Before we get to the show, I have some super exciting

0:44.7

news, everyone. I am going to be a judge on Guy's grocery games. Yes, Triple G. It's the beloved

0:51.0

competition show hosted by the one and only Guy Fietti and I'll be on next Wednesday night, June 25th.

0:57.7

That's Guy's Grocery Games on Food Network, check your local listings for the time, and set your DVRs.

1:03.2

It's going to be awesome.

1:05.0

All right, let's get to the show.

1:07.9

For about as long as there have been restaurants, there have been restaurant critics.

1:12.0

Chefs tend to have a love-hate relationship with them.

1:14.5

A great review can make a chef's career and keep customers coming in the door for years.

1:19.3

But a bad review can do the opposite.

1:21.7

And even in an age when legacy media is struggling and everyone on social media in Yelp is a critic,

1:27.4

reviews and major outlets

1:28.9

still carry weight, especially in the world of fine dining. Today, we have a story about one

1:34.8

critic's very unusual encounter with a famous chef and the bombshell article that followed.

1:41.1

Mackenzie Chung Fagan is the restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle.

1:44.7

It's a job she's had for a year and a half.

1:46.8

Before that, she was a senior editor at Bon Appetit and had written for GQ, Playboy, and Vice.

...

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