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The Atlas Obscura Podcast

When Kelly McEvers Was In Over Her Head

The Atlas Obscura Podcast

SiriusXM Podcasts & Atlas Obscura

Places & Travel, Society & Culture

4.61.8K Ratings

🗓️ 13 April 2026

⏱️ 13 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

As a foreign correspondent, Kelly McEvers has found herself detained by the KGB, held up at ISIS checkpoints, and on the front line in Syria. But it was a much more mundane experience that left her feeling in over her head years later.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

A few weeks ago, I was up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains by myself for the weekend.

0:09.5

I like doing that sometimes.

0:11.5

The ski mountain I like is about five hours north of L.A.

0:15.0

I usually leave town on a Friday night.

0:17.3

On the way up, I sleep in my van at a rest stop or a campground on public land, and I wake up the next morning and the mountains are right there.

0:26.7

On this trip, I had decided that after a day of skiing, I was going to go explore the Long Valley Caldera.

0:34.5

A caldera is basically a big depression caused by a volcano that has collapsed on itself.

0:39.8

And the Long Valley caldera did that about 700,000 years ago.

0:44.2

It's actually one of the largest calderas in the world.

0:47.3

20 miles by 11 miles.

0:48.9

Right near Mammoth Mountain, where I go skiing.

0:52.2

It looks like just a big, flat, open field covered in sagebrush.

0:57.5

But underground, there's still an active magma chamber that heats the groundwater and forms

1:04.0

some of my favorite things in the world.

1:06.8

Hot Springs.

1:08.2

These little blue pools that pop up all across the field where hot water has bubbled up

1:13.2

and you can just get in and sit there on a really cold day. So on this day, I was searching for

1:20.1

hot springs in the Long Valley Caldera by myself and my van. Oh, and it was after a really big snowstorm.

1:29.3

What could go wrong?

1:31.8

I'm Kelly McEvers, and this is Atlas Obscura,

1:34.9

a celebration of the world's strange, incredible, and wondrous places.

1:40.0

And here at the show, we ask people a lot of questions about the places they go.

...

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