Hi friends. It's the Robcast. This is episode 393 and this episode is called These Are Waves. Because waves, oh, I could talk about them all day. So I'm going to take a crack at that.

Yeah. all day. So I'm going to take a crack at that. Let's do that. Let's talk about some waves. Because a wave is an orbital pattern of energy traversing the surface of the earth through water.

Yeah, it's orbital, circular. So if you were to like cut it from the side,

like a cross section, and you were look at it, a wave is actually a circle headed towards

shore, and part of the circle is above the surface of the water, and part of the circle is below

the surface. So as this orbital pattern of energy

moves through water, the water goes up and down and in and out slightly, but mostly the water

stays where it is. It's the energy. It's the wave stays where it is.

It's the energy.

It's the wave itself that is making its way through the water.

So as a wave gets closer to the shore, the bottom of the circle begins to, let's look for the word here, the bottom of the circle begins to interact with the ocean floor. And so what happens is as the bottom of the circle begins to interact,

as it becomes more and more aware of what's happening on the bottom, that begins to change and alter the shape of the part of the

circle above the water, which you know and I know to be the wave that we see forming as we

stand on shore. So as the bottom of the circle starts to feel the ocean floor, gradually that circular

shape gets like squeezed or sandwich. It starts to get, it starts to turn more and more

elliptical until it breaks. So that rip, that curl, that shoulder, that

peak, that white water that you see, it breaks, the wave breaks. When the bottom of the circle,

the part under the water hits something, reef, a rock, sand, a jetty. So what happens is the top, as the bottom of the

circle starts to interact with the ocean floor, the top of the wave starts going faster and

faster where the bottom is getting slower and slower. And what that does is it compresses

everything into a smaller volume,

that elliptical shape, which causes the wave to get taller. So that's why when you're watching

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