The Surf's Always Up — In Waco, Texas
Short Wave
NPR
4.7 • 6.6K Ratings
🗓️ 23 September 2021
⏱️ 12 minutes
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Summary
Read more of Jon's reporting on artificial waves: https://n.pr/3zAX95k
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Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | You're listening to shortwave from NPR. |
| 0:05.0 | Surfs up, Duterino. Shortwave is going to Waco, Texas. |
| 0:08.9 | Look at that, little two right. |
| 0:11.0 | I'm Emily Kwong, and I'm here with NPR, |
| 0:13.6 | Senior Surfing Correspondent John Hamilton. |
| 0:16.4 | Hi, Emily. |
| 0:17.3 | So typically you cover neuroscience? |
| 0:19.5 | Like what are you doing on this story? |
| 0:21.7 | Emily, I am the Senior Brain Correspondent in public radio. |
| 0:25.8 | Oh, I'm sorry. |
| 0:26.9 | But I grew up surfing in Southern California. |
| 0:30.2 | This was long ago when Dr. Delt still filled the skies. |
| 0:34.3 | So I've been following the evolution of artificial surfing waves |
| 0:38.4 | as kind of a hobby. |
| 0:39.8 | And the science of wave making has come a long way. |
| 0:43.2 | I'm into this artificial waves surfing science. |
| 0:46.9 | Let's do it. |
| 0:47.5 | Oh, yeah. Yeah. |
| 0:48.2 | In nature, it takes this really complicated interaction |
| 0:51.9 | between an ocean swell and the underwater contours |
| 0:54.6 | of the shore to produce a great surfing wave. |
| 0:57.9 | The best waves break in places where these really large ocean swells |
... |
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