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The Dirtbag Diaries

The Shorts -- Great White Book

The Dirtbag Diaries

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.82.6K Ratings

🗓️ 8 May 2009

⏱️ 11 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In 2001, Scott Kennedy and his wife Sophie were living in the States. On weekends, they would meet up to climb in Yosemite’s high country, Tuolumne. On the Great White Book, Scott was offered a chance to look inside. What he saw was too difficult to share even with those closest to him.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

This is The Shorts, and you're listening to The Dirtback Diaries.

0:17.0

It was 2001, about a month after 9-11, and my girlfriend Sophie and I were in California

0:21.4

for a few months.

0:22.4

I was working for a magazine in San Clemente, about an hour south of LA, while Sophie was spending

0:27.4

most of her time in Yosemite, climbing.

0:30.4

I was jealous, not just because she was getting to climb all the time, but because she was

0:33.7

a capable Australian climber living in Camp 4, long-term and looking for climbing partners.

0:39.3

So every Friday, I'd make the 6-hour drive and delve into the tourist bus chaos of the

0:43.0

valley to hang out with Sophie for the weekend and climb.

0:46.2

Anything to get Sophie away from Camp 4 is undersexed and over-zellous guys that gathered

0:50.3

like Thunderheads around her.

0:59.7

Twalamine in many ways is the anti-Yosemite, where the valley is crawling with climbers,

1:04.3

tourists and hangers on, Twalamine is a quiet refuge.

1:08.1

We decided to climb the Great White Book, a classic four-pitch romp, no harder than about

1:12.6

5'6".

1:13.6

It was the perfect introduction to the area before getting on harder and bigger things.

1:18.7

I was climbing hard at the time, well above the grade of this climb.

1:21.9

I'd grown up in the Canadian Rockies, where a compact limestone and explosive cracks meant

1:25.9

that running it out was part of climbing.

1:28.8

I took the sharp end for the first pitch.

1:30.8

It was a cruise, more of a ramble to get to the start of the real climbing.

1:42.0

I headed the rack to Sophie.

...

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