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Listen now, wherever you get your BBC podcasts. It's just a regular Monday here in Cape Coast. The beach is bustling with

fishermen and boat makers, market sellers and traders.

Today I'm visiting Cape Coast Castle here on the southern Atlantic coast of Ghana.

There are still the remains of over 30 slave forts, such as this one, dotted along the coastline of this country.

This particular structure was first established by the Portuguese in 1555.

And just around this corner is what is known as the door of no return. Just like

the castle it reflects a truly horrific period of human

history. Millions of enslaved Africans were once forced through doors just like this to begin a life of immense hardship in the Americas.

It's a black arch doorway about 4 meters tall. It's a double door. The original door was much smaller.

The walls of the castle are painted white, but they're a bit worn. It's always a gut-wrenching experience to see a place like this with your own eyes.

And for black people from the US like me,

or indeed for many other parts of the world,

visiting such places can take on a whole new level of significance

while reaffirming an historical connection to this incredible continent. And it's a connection that Ghana has been keen to strengthen. In 2019 the government launched the Year of Return, an initiative to attract

members of the African diaspora to Ghana as visitors or residents.

The Year of the Return is what got me when they said, hey, black people come back because I

wanted somebody to want me.

It was the most amazing experience.

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