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The Food Programme

The Chef Who Vanished - The Story of Jeremiah Tower

The Food Programme

BBC

Food, Arts

4.4977 Ratings

🗓️ 15 May 2017

⏱️ 29 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

At the age of 30, with no formal training, Jeremiah Tower became a chef. His approach to cooking changed the food world for good, then he walked away. Dan Saladino tells the story of the man who many consider to be the first "celebrity chef".

The food writer and broadcaster Anthony Bourdain has described Jeremiah Tower as a "dangerous person to know", to others he's the Jay Gatsby figure of the restaurant world. Born in the USA, brought up in Australia and England, his childhood was, on first appearances, a privileged one. He was born into a world of wealth, travel and a first class lifestyle. It was also however, strange and difficult with a mother and father who were often detached and uninterested in their young son. As he got to experience more of the world's best restaurants, hotels and ocean liners he sought comfort and pleasure in food, kitchens and cooking.

At age 30, following studies at Harvard which resulted in a failed career as an architect, he answered a job advertisement to work in California's Chez Panisse restaurant, founded by the cook of America's counter culture Alice Waters. Both the restaurant and Jeremiah's cooking would become world famous.

In 1984 he set up his own restaurant in San Francisco, Stars, which went on to become one of the most celebrated and lucrative restaurant in America. Jeremiah's approach to breaking free from French influences and cooking with local ingredients would go on to influence chefs and restaurants around the world. Evenings at Stars would become the stuff of legend with diners ranging from Rudolph Nureyev and Margot Fonteyn to Pavarotti and the Beastie Boys.

Just over a decade later Jeremiah Tower would put down his apron and walk away. Dan Saladino tells his story.

Transcript

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0:00.0

You're about to listen to a BBC podcast and I'd like to tell you a bit about the

0:03.8

podcast I work on. I'm Dan Clark and I commissioned factual podcasts at the BBC.

0:08.6

It's a massive area but I'd sum it up as stories to help us make sense of the forces shaping the world.

0:15.3

What podcasting does is give us the space and the time to take brilliant BBC journalism

0:19.8

and tell amazing compelling stories that really get behind the headlines.

0:23.7

And what I get really excited about is when we find a way of drawing you into a subject

0:28.4

you might not even have thought you were interested in.

0:30.2

Whether it's investigations, science, tech, politics, culture, true crime, the environment,

0:36.1

you can always discover more with a podcast on BBC Sounds.

0:40.1

Hello, you've downloaded a podcast of BBC Radio 4's The Food Program.

0:45.0

Welcome to our world from cooking to culture, politics to pleasure.

0:50.0

We hope you enjoy it. Whether it's music or art, politics or literature, once in a while someone comes along and shakes up the whole scene,

1:04.8

breaks down the status quo, gives a fresh perspective.

1:09.5

This story is about a man who did that in the restaurant world.

1:14.0

I'm Jeremiah Tower, chef, restaurateur, ex-chef restaurateur.

1:20.0

And if you know little or nothing about this particular chef's story, don't worry, you're not alone.

1:30.0

Most people would not know who Jeremiah Tower is.

1:33.0

And sadly, in the 80s and early 90s,

1:36.4

Jeremiah Tower was one of the major names.

1:39.1

He was on the front of magazines.

1:41.0

He was not all over Europe.

1:50.0

And then to many, it looked as though he put down his apron and simply walked away from the kitchen. It was just odd that he sort of was so, burned so bright and then just disappeared.

...

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