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Best of the Spectator

Table Talk: Jon Atashroo

Best of the Spectator

The Spectator

News Commentary, News, Daily News, Society & Culture

4.4785 Ratings

🗓️ 22 February 2020

⏱️ 25 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Jon Atashroo is Head Chef at the Tate Modern, whose culinary career began with proving dough on a radiator at university. His latest creation is a tasting menu inspired by the Tate's upcoming Andy Warhol exhibition, featuring dishes such as Coca Cola Jelly and Tuna Fish Disaster. On the podcast, he talks to Olivia and Lara about his Persian sweet tooth, how a degree in economics influenced his culinary career, and bringing artists like Picasso and Olafur Eliasson to the Tate restaurant menu.

Table Talk is a series of podcasts where Lara Prendergast and Olivia Potts talk to celebrity guests about their life story, through the food and drink that has come to define it. Listen to past episodes here.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to Table Talk. I'm Olivia Potts and I'm Laura Prendergast. Today we are joined by John Atashru, who is the head chef of the Tate Modern. Alongside the seasonal alacart that the restaurant serves, John curates menus based around the gallery's exhibitions. And this morning, we're delighted to be talking to him ahead of the forthcoming Andy Warhol exhibition for which a nine-course

0:24.9

menu has been created. John, welcome to Table Talk. All right. Thanks for having me. We'll start where

0:29.8

we always start, which is at the beginning. What was food like when you were growing up? Well, my dad's

0:35.4

had one dish. I think he called it a Persian omelet. So you take tomatoes,

0:41.1

you fry them in butter, an obscene amount of butter, you throw some chili in there, and then when

0:45.5

it's kind of getting all pretty smushed up, you crack a few eggs, and then you serve it with

0:49.7

kind of burnt bread. It's amazing on a hangover. But my mum's a great cook. My mum, so my background,

0:58.0

my dad's from Iran and my mum's English. And we grew up eating a lot of Persian food. So I was

1:04.9

probably eating rice maybe six nights a week. Yeah, a roast dinner on a Sunday. I was always,

1:12.7

always looked forward to. But then,

1:18.5

you know, we had a nice variety of food through the week. My mum was a full-time working mum,

1:24.1

but then she cooked a lot. I don't really know how she found time to do it. I think it's because she probably didn't sleep. but a lot of Persian cuisine, a lot of rice,

1:29.3

you know, the occasional curry.

1:31.0

Was your parents cooking something you were interested in from the early age, or was it just

1:34.7

part of the scenery?

1:35.9

I think it was probably part of the scenery.

1:38.4

I don't really remember actively being involved.

1:42.9

I think it was more, like I would be given broad beans that I needed to peel or something like that

1:47.3

to kind of help out for one of the Persian dishes.

1:51.1

But it wasn't like I was coming in and cooking.

1:55.1

You went on a stool next to her apron strings?

1:57.5

No, I think one of the first things I learned I had to make was Satsiki, and then I got

...

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