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The Atlas Obscura Podcast

Sweden’s Last Night Watchman

The Atlas Obscura Podcast

SiriusXM Podcasts & Atlas Obscura

Places & Travel, Society & Culture

4.61.8K Ratings

🗓️ 11 September 2025

⏱️ 26 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In Ystad, Sweden, every night at 9pm a night watchman scans the horizon for fires from the tower of St Mary’s Church, and sounds his trumpet to let the city know it is safe. This tradition goes back to the Medieval Ages. The Night Watchman of Ystad is one of the last keeping his tradition, and today his role has taken on an even bigger significance. Author and journalist Eliot Stein takes us through the evolution of the night watchman. Read more in Eliot’s book, Custodians of Wonder.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Istad is a picturesque town on the southern coast of Sweden.

0:07.0

The city started as a small fishing village in the 12th century and grew over time into an important medieval hub.

0:14.0

Today, it's one of the best preserved medieval towns in Scandinavia.

0:18.0

It's architecture, it's half-timbered buildings, the cobblestone

0:22.8

alleyways. You can step into this town and just feel completely transported, so much so that

0:30.0

at times the historical charm and this highly curated nostalgia all blend together. And then every night at 9 p.m., this horn sounds from the Tower of St. Mary's Church.

0:44.1

It sounds again every 15 minutes.

0:47.4

This horn is not for show.

0:50.7

It's not for tourists.

0:52.4

And it comes from a real person, the night watchman.

0:59.0

A very real night watchman and one of the last in the world. A man who is keeping a tradition

1:06.0

alive that dates back to the Middle Ages. The role of the night watchman dates back even farther to biblical times.

1:14.0

In Istad, this last sentinel, this night watchman, scans the horizon for signs of fire.

1:21.6

It's his job to ensure the safety of the city.

1:25.6

Lately, this role, which can seem wildly outmoded, has taken on a very serious significance.

1:35.7

I'm Dylan Thuris, and this is Atlas of Skira, a celebration of the world's strange,

1:40.9

incredible, and wondrous places.

1:43.3

Today, I'm talking to Elliot Stein. He is a journalist

1:46.7

who has traveled across the world. He's been talking to these final custodians who are

1:51.9

keeping the traditions alive. Elliot chronicled it in his book, Custodians of Wonder,

1:57.8

ancient customs, profound traditions, and the last people keeping them alive.

2:03.0

Thanks for coming back on the show, Elliot.

...

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