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The Sporkful

Should Fine Dining Exist?

The Sporkful

SiriusXM Podcasts

Arts

4.63.8K Ratings

🗓️ 6 March 2023

⏱️ 30 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The Copenhagen restaurant Noma has consistently topped lists of best restaurants in the world. People fly in from all over the globe to pay $500 per person for the hyperlocal tasting menus dreamed up by chef/owner Rene Redzepi. But a couple months ago, Redzepi announced the restaurant will close next year because it had become unsustainable, “financially and emotionally.”

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

It's very beautiful, surrounded by gardens.

0:05.7

You walk down this walkway, you're greeted by wholesome servers from all over the world,

0:13.1

and they welcome you as if you are not just observers in a theatrical event, but really

0:18.3

participants.

0:19.3

This is Adam Platt.

0:20.5

For over 20 years, he was a restaurant critic at New York Magazine.

0:23.8

In the summer of 2019, he went to the Copenhagen Restaurant Nome, which often tops lists of the

0:28.4

best restaurants in the world.

0:30.4

Everybody's full of life, and everybody's beautiful, and the wine is delicious, and the

0:35.2

guests seem to be hand-picked, so you have this idea that you're one of the faithful,

0:39.9

and you get swept up in it, and it's a great experience.

0:42.7

Adam's not someone who normally gets swept up in restaurants.

0:46.0

He actually brought me out to eat with him once years ago, because restaurant critics

0:48.9

need to come with groups that can order lots of items without attracting suspicion.

0:53.0

And I watched as he sampled one dish after another, fared his brow, and shared his

0:57.0

displeasure.

0:58.0

It was always, mah, blah, ordinary.

1:00.8

He's clearly hard to impress.

1:02.8

And Adam was prepared to scoff at Nome when he arrived.

1:05.8

But being there, he couldn't help but enjoy himself.

1:08.7

Copenhagen, especially in the summertime, is a hugely seductive, a wonderful place.

1:13.6

It's really a stage set.

...

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