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Today in Focus

Shein and the rise of ultra-fast fashion

Today in Focus

The Guardian

Daily News, News

4.5778 Ratings

🗓️ 25 April 2022

⏱️ 31 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The Chinese fashion brand Shein found rapid success by catering to young shoppers whose tastes are driven by social media. But making fast fashion even faster comes at a cost. Help support our independent journalism at theguardian.com/infocus

Transcript

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0:00.0

This is the Guardian.

0:09.1

Today, when fast fashion gets supercharged, what are the consequences?

0:15.0

We chart the rise of the Chinese clothing brand, Shien.

0:30.2

If you were in my studio right now, there is a desk covered in pieces of paper that have different

0:36.3

watercolour paintings all over them. Some are big, washy backgrounds and some are

0:40.4

little small kind of more motive things. Nixie Killick is a fashion designer who's based in Melbourne,

0:45.6

Australia. I start off painting those and then I digitally remix them on the computer so they

0:50.4

become the whole other layer of dimension and kind of another jigsaw puzzle. Nixie comes from a really

0:56.2

creative family. She grew up in the circus and as a child she says she was mesmerised by the colorful

1:02.4

costumes that the performers wore. Today she creates psychedelic acid bright jackets and dresses,

1:09.2

hoodies and tights that have been worn by celebrities including Lady Gaga and Seah. And at festivals

1:15.5

like Coachella, her designs just pop. I think I have a lot of people with her reactions are like,

1:21.1

oh I've always said no I couldn't with her, I couldn't with her, I couldn't with her and then they

1:24.1

were and they go oh my god I feel amazing. She labors over each design for months, first painting

1:30.1

intricate patterns by hand and then transposing them to fabric. Then she builds in an interactive

1:36.4

digital element. One of the most popular things is a biker jacket and skirt set and yeah it's a

1:42.3

compilation of my paintings and augmented reality targets, point and shoot your phone at the target

1:50.3

and it will activate an animation that will play in the metaverse and mixed reality in between you

1:56.1

and the piece. Each piece is so distinctive that Nixie thought they couldn't be copied. So she was

2:02.2

surprised one day recently when a fan sent her a link to address that was for sale on the website

2:07.9

of the Chinese fashion company Shea and it looked weirdly similar to one of hers. And I checked

2:13.6

the link and thought oh wow what and it was so heartbreaking I kind of had it was just that it's

...

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