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Science Friday

SciFri Extra: The Origin Of The Word 'Ketchup'

Science Friday

Science Friday and WNYC Studios

Science, Life Sciences, Wnyc, Natural Sciences, Friday

4.4 • 6.3K Ratings

🗓️ 28 July 2020

⏱️ 19 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Science Diction is back! This time around, the team is investigating the science, language, and history of food. First up: Digging into America's favorite condiment, ketchup! At the turn of the 20th century, 12 young men sat in the basement of the Department of Agriculture, eating meals with a side of borax, salicylic acid, or formaldehyde. They were called the Poison Squad, and they were part of a government experiment to figure out whether popular food additives were safe. (Spoiler: Many weren’t.) Food manufacturers weren’t pleased with the findings, but one prominent ketchup maker paid attention. Influenced by these experiments, he transformed ketchup into the all-American condiment that we know and love today. Except ketchup—both the sauce and the word—didn't come from the United States. The story of America’s favorite condiment begins in East Asia. Want more Science Diction? Subscribe on Apple podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts. Harvey Wiley (back row, third from left) and the members of The Poison Squad. (U.S. Food and Drug Administration) Members of the Poison Squad dining in the basement of the Department of Agriculture. Harvey Wiley occasionally ate with them, to offer encouragement and support. (U.S. Food and Drug Administration)  The members of the Poison Squad came up with their own inspirational slogan, which hung on a sign outside the dining room. (U.S. Food and Drug Administration ) Guest Alan Lee is a freelance linguist and native Hokkien speaker.  Footnotes And Further Reading The Poison Squad by Deborah Blum tells the very entertaining history of Harvey Wiley, the early days of food regulation in the United States, and, of course, the Poison Squad. The Language of Food by Dan Jurafsky is a word nerd’s dream, and contains more on ketchup’s early history. Special thanks to Dan Jurafsky for providing background information on the early history of ketchup for this episode.  Can't get enough ketchup history? Check out Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment With Recipes by Andrew F. Smith. Learn more about ketchup's early origins in Dan Jurafsky's Slate article on "The Cosmopolitan Condiment."  Credits Science Diction is hosted and produced by Johanna Mayer. Our editor and producer is Elah Feder. We had additional story editing from Nathan Tobey. Our Chief Content Office is Nadja Oertelt. Fact checking by Michelle Harris, with help from Danya AbdelHameid. Daniel Peterschmidt is our composer, and they wrote our version of the “Song of the Poison Squad.” We had research help from Cosmo Bjorkenheim and Attabey Rodríguez Benítez. Sound design and mastering by Chris Wood.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hey there, Ira here. Today we have a little treat in store for all the word nerds out there.

0:05.9

Science Diction is back, and for the next month they're all about the history, science, and language of food.

0:13.4

Yeah, this is going to be a fun one.

0:15.3

Host Johanna Mayer will talk about why some ice cream names just sound more delicious than others,

0:22.5

why the earliest restaurants are places where chewing was not required, all kinds of good stuff. But today we're bringing

0:28.5

you an episode about the most all-American condiment of all time. You've probably been squirting a lot

0:36.0

of it on your barbecue burgers and dogs these days.

0:39.1

Ketchup. Except it turns out both the sauce and the word ketchup aren't American at all.

0:46.3

I know you're going to want more, so subscribe to Science Diction wherever you get your podcasts.

0:52.0

Now here's Johanna Mayer with the story of ketchup.

0:56.9

In the early 1900s, there was a strange dining room in the basement of the Department of Agriculture,

1:05.2

sparse white walls, white china, two round oak tables with white tablecloths, 12 straight-back chairs, and propped up at the

1:15.0

entrance, a hand-painted sign that said, none but the brave can eat the fair.

1:24.5

Every day, 12 young, healthy men would put on their suits and bow ties, march into that dining room, and dig into meals laced with borax, or salicylic acid, or even formaldehyde.

1:41.5

They were called the poison squad, and the meals that they ate in that basement dining hall

1:46.5

would completely transform America's most iconic condiment.

1:52.8

Catch up.

1:55.2

From Science Friday, this is science diction.

1:58.2

I'm Johanna Mayer.

1:59.4

Today, we're talking about the word ketchup.

2:02.3

At the turn of the century, food regulation in the United States was just not a thing.

2:19.3

Manufacturers were making all kinds of substitutions, shall we call them,

...

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