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The Atlas Obscura Podcast

Retracing A Grandfather’s Footsteps

The Atlas Obscura Podcast

SiriusXM Podcasts & Atlas Obscura

Places & Travel, Society & Culture

4.61.8K Ratings

🗓️ 15 January 2026

⏱️ 22 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Dawn Anahid MacKeen’s grandfather survived the Armenian genocide, journeying nearly a thousand miles (much of it on foot) out of what is now Turkey and into the Syrian desert. Dawn chronicled his journey in her book The Hundred Year Walk: An Armenian Odyssey – and also retraced her grandfather’s route herself to better understand what he endured. We always want to hear from you! If you have a question or story for us, give us a call at 315-992-7902 and leave a message, or send an email to hello@atlasobscura.com.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

So tell us just about your grandfather.

0:04.6

What was his name?

0:05.8

Where was he born?

0:07.5

Who was he?

0:08.6

Well, to us, we called him Baba, which was my mother called him for father.

0:13.5

But we also called him that.

0:15.6

But his name, formally to other people, was Stepan Mischjian.

0:23.4

This is Don Anaheid McKean.

0:26.2

Her grandfather was born in the late 1880s and lived in what was then the Ottoman Empire.

0:32.2

He was Armenian from a town in what is now Turkey called Adabazar, not far from Constantinople, which of course

0:39.6

is now Istanbul. Now, I also want to tell you about my grandfather's personality. He was really funny.

0:45.6

He was so mischievous. He would call up his friends in the middle of the day and tell them,

0:50.8

oh, you know, we're having a meeting. you must come now, and they all would leave work,

0:55.4

and, you know, he would get there waiting for this meeting to begin, and he would pass out,

0:59.5

you know, ice cream and coffee to everyone. And he would make up languages in the middle of a crowd

1:05.0

just to see, to watch people try to guess what languages was. And so he constantly knew how to reinvent himself.

1:14.1

I think it was that power of reinvention that really helped him later survive what would

1:19.3

happen during the genocide. Dawn's grandfather, Stepan, was 28 years old when World War I started.

1:27.0

Armenians were a Christian minority in the Ottoman Empire.

1:30.3

And as the Ottoman struggled on the battlefield,

1:33.3

nationalist leaders intensified their branding of Armenians as traitors.

1:38.3

Millions of Armenians were deported from their homes

...

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