Preowned Clothing
Let's Know Things
Colin Wright
4.8 • 593 Ratings
🗓️ 14 September 2021
⏱️ 25 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
This week we talk about ragpickers, vintage fashion, and resale platforms.
We also discuss refurbished, recycled, and used clothing.
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit letsknowthings.substack.com/subscribe
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | Though some fashion world commentators posit that the concept of vintage fashion emerged in New York, Greenwich Village, |
| 0:23.6 | more specifically, in the mid-1950s. |
| 0:26.6 | The concept actually goes back quite a bit further in history, arguably originating with |
| 0:31.5 | rag pickers, sometimes called rag and bone men, who, in the age before modern sanitation systems and practices, |
| 0:41.5 | like regular garbage collection schedules, would hustle around cities with carts and bags, |
| 0:47.4 | collecting spare bits of whatever they could find, and then exchanging those bits, |
| 0:53.0 | usually by wait, for a set fee, at a set location, for such |
| 0:57.7 | scrap deposits. |
| 0:59.4 | These scraps were then either converted into other materials, cardboard, for instance, or broken |
| 1:05.9 | glass melted down to be incorporated into new glass, or in some cases were repaired, as was the case |
| 1:12.5 | with machinery, or articles of clothing that were not quite rags yet, and could thus be |
| 1:19.8 | stitched back into something functional and may be resellable. |
| 1:24.5 | Older used articles of clothing have long been available if you knew where to look |
| 1:29.5 | then, but for much of history, and still today, in some cities where rag pickers still operate, |
| 1:35.9 | it hasn't generally been considered a positive thing to get your clothing from these sorts of |
| 1:42.5 | vendors. They were clothiers of last resort, essentially. |
| 1:47.7 | The evolution of these used, repaired, older-style garments into something borderline desirable, |
| 1:56.3 | at least by folks in some subcultures, arguably, began during World War I, during which textiles and |
| 2:04.1 | buttons and other such materials were in short supply around the globe, and in many countries |
| 2:10.6 | it became a visual statement of support for the war effort, a patriotic gesture to wear older garments inherited from one's own family |
| 2:20.5 | members, or to purchase older garments that had obvious stitches and patches that made it clear |
| 2:26.6 | the wearer of said garment was sacrificing their vanity for the greater social good. This visual |
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