Paris district guide: What we found in the 19th arrondissement
The Earful Tower: Paris
Oliver Gee
4.8 • 794 Ratings
🗓️ 16 May 2026
⏱️ 20 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
New episode: Let's take a deeper dive into the 19th arrondissement of Paris. You've hopefully already heard the previous episode, where Ben McPartland shared his thoughts on the 19th Kingdom.
In this brand new episode, we visited some of the places he recommended, plus more. And we report back to you! (Scroll down for the spelling/websites of each place mentioned).
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For more from the Earful Tower, here are some handy links:
Food and Drink
L'Atalante
A spacious bar on the canal known for IPAs and dishes like roasted cauliflower with peanut butter sauce.
26 Quai de la Marne, 75019 Paris
www.latalante.fr
Combat
A lively cocktail bar near the border of the 19th and 20th arrondissements, recommended for high-quality cocktails.
63 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
www.combat.paris
Lao Siam
A long-running Southeast Asian restaurant recognized by the Michelin Guide, known for dishes like "Crying Tiger" beef.
49 Rue de Belleville, 75019 Paris
www.laosiam.fr
Cheval d'Or
A highly praised restaurant with an understated exterior.
21 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.chevaldorparis.com
Paname Brewing Company
A brewery on the canal serving craft beer and food.
41 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
www.panamebrewingcompany.com
Le Passage à Niveau
A restaurant on the Petite Ceinture with its own herb garden and mushroom cultivation.
2 bis Rue de l'Ourcq, 75019 Paris
https://www.instagram.com/lepassageaniveau/
Coffee Shops & Bakeries
Mardi
A café known for excellent coffee and Swedish-style cinnamon buns.
29 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.instagram.com/mardi_cafe_paris
Buna Bet
A specialty coffee shop and roastery known for single-origin coffee, pastries, and a warm neighborhood atmosphere.
102 Rue de Meaux, 75019 Paris
www.bunabet.fr
Parks & Culture
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
A dramatic park built on an old quarry with steep hills, a lake, and a hilltop temple.
1–7 Rue Botzaris, 75019 Paris
Parc de la Villette
A large contemporary park with playgrounds, museums, and entertainment venues.
211 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
www.lavillette.com
Philharmonie de Paris
A major concert hall located inside Parc de la Villette.
221 Av. Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
www.philharmoniedeparis.fr
L'Eau et les Rêves
A botanical bookshop on a moored boat along the canal.
9 Quai de l'Oise, 75019 Paris
https://www.penichelibrairie.com/
Belleville Market
A busy outdoor food market near Rue de Belleville.
Boulevard de Belleville, 75019 Paris
Nordic Bookshop (La Librairie Nordique)
A specialized bookstore focused on Nordic and northern literature.
5 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
www.lalibrairienordique.fr
Transcript
Click on a timestamp to play from that location
| 0:00.0 | Hello everybody, Oliver G here from the Earful Tower, sitting across from me, Lena Norton G. Hello, everyone. Not messing around, getting straight into this episode. It's an extra one about the 19th District, a brand new episode. No one's heard this. This ain't no rehash, baby. No, it's fresh. This is perfect for you if you're thinking about visiting the 19th or you want a little bit of nostalgia for the 19th or you want to know what's up in the 19th because earlier this week I did my in-depth episode with Ben McPartland talking about sort of the soul of the district. |
| 0:36.1 | And then five years ago, you and I visited the district and spent 24 hours there and recommended a bunch of things to do. Yep, that's right. Since talking to Ben and Abbeola in the previous episode, I've got a whole bunch of new things to see, which I went and visited with you, Lena, and Otis, my five-year-old, almost five-year-old. |
| 0:55.6 | Yeah. And we're just going to report back. Exactly. So that's what the episode is and maybe give you some things to write down in your notes, I guess. Yeah. So let's do it. Let's do it. Also, I just want to add, I know I said I get straight into it, Just got off the phone with ABC radio in Australia who were very intrigued about this. Is this season already picking up some press? We've broken Australia. Oh my God. Isn't that cool? That's so good. So, um, yeah. Was it a good interview? Yeah, they were asking about the, the sort of souls of the different districts and so on. What did you have to say for the 19th? I didn't really talk about the 19th. |
| 1:31.0 | So let's do it now. Okay, let's do it now. So, Ben, I'll talk about what I did with Otis first. You weren't there. Ben McPartland recommended some places. I didn't really know further up on the canal. And one of the places was Atalant. |
| 1:46.5 | Atalant. |
| 1:46.9 | Atalant. |
| 1:47.7 | It's a place. |
| 1:48.3 | I feel like I've heard people talk about it. |
| 1:50.2 | I've heard the name pop up before. |
| 1:52.4 | Well, it was kind of cool. |
| 1:53.2 | After school, I took Otis. |
| 1:54.4 | I said, let's go for an adventure. |
| 1:55.8 | How was it to go with him as your date? |
| 1:59.4 | I loved it, actually. Do you feel like it affected how you saw the plays? |
| 2:04.5 | In a good way. |
| 2:05.3 | Because Ben talked about the 19th. |
| 2:07.3 | If you don't know, by the way, if this is the first episode you've ever listened to this podcast, |
| 2:10.6 | go back and listen to the previous one about the 19th. |
| 2:12.9 | So you get the sense of the soul of the neighborhood. |
| 2:16.5 | But we got off at the nearest metro, which I think was Urqu or Lumiere, |
| 2:21.8 | and then we approached the canal and I said, I want to go over that bridge. |
| 2:27.3 | Which if, like the big park du Villettes, it was sort of walking over into that bit. |
... |
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