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Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

October 13th - Travelling along Morocco's fabulous trains

Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

The Independent

Places & Travel, Leisure, Society & Culture

3.6628 Ratings

🗓️ 13 October 2022

⏱️ 6 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

I'm aboard a Moroccan train, from Casablanca heading north to the capital Rabat. This nation has the best network in Africa, with proper high-speed trains running between Tangier and Casablanca, plus user-friendly ticketing. For once, I am travelling in first class – upstairs in a comfy seat. Fares here are such good value that you can afford to treat yourself.

 

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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to today's independent travel podcast, which, as the noises behind me might testify, is taking place on board yet another train.

0:14.5

But with good reason, because I am travelling through the fine African nation of Morocco and I am aboard one of the trains

0:26.0

born what I think is the continent's greatest rail network.

0:32.0

This is the navet, the shuttle service that runs between Casablanca, the main commercial city in Morocco and Rabat,

0:42.0

the capital. It takes about 70 minutes and my goodness, it's a fine journey running beside the

0:49.5

vast port of Casablanca and then through marshalling yards and back streets beneath a kind and sunny

1:00.4

African sky. Rail travel in places outside Europe is sometimes a bit daunting for people. Certainly, if you are not in

1:14.1

somewhere like Japan, then you could well find standards or not what you would be expecting. But I just

1:20.5

want to provide, I guess, hope, a bit of reassurance and inspiration about travelling by rail in Morocco. It's very straightforward.

1:30.3

I travelled yesterday from Marrakesh on the Express to Casablanca and that was straightforward

1:38.3

to book on the website of Moroccan Railways. Oncf, They've got a good English site. They will take British

1:47.8

credit cards and you just book your train and turn up having got the ticket on your mobile phone.

1:55.9

So pretty equivalent, I guess, to what's happening in the UK. For this particular train I didn't book in advance I turned up at the station.

2:05.6

Slight impediment to easy travel is that you have to queue up and pay cash.

2:13.6

They do have machines which accept credit cards, but only Moroccan credit cards.

2:19.0

And so therefore make sure you've got a few Moroccan dirums for your journey.

2:25.5

One reason I can talk so loudly without fear of disturbing other people is because I'm in first class.

2:37.6

It costs about 50% more. It gets you more space and certainly on the three-hour journey from Marrakesh to Casablanca, it was worth it for the extra

2:47.5

comfort that you get in some quite kind of traditional trains.

2:52.4

And if you were lucky enough to travel on trains in France, say towards the end of the 20th century,

3:01.5

then this will feel reassuringly familiar.

3:05.1

This is a double-decker kind of commuter-style train, but with big comfortable

...

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