New biographies look at the careers of designers Claire McCardell and Virgil Abloh

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Books, Arts

4.2 • 672 Ratings

🗓️ 18 July 2025

⏱️ 21 minutes

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Summary

Two new books look at the lives and careers of designers who revolutionized American fashion. First, Elizabeth Evitts Dickinson is out with Claire McCardell, a biography of a lesser-known designer who radically changed the way we think about women's clothing. In today's episode, Dickinson speaks with NPR's Andrew Limbong about the history of pockets and the psychology of what we wear. Then, Robin Givhan joins NPR's Michel Martin to discuss Make It Ours, her new cultural history of Virgil Abloh. They discuss how Abloh redefined luxury fashion, despite beginning his career as an industry outsider.

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Transcript

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0:00.0	Hey, it's Empire's Book of the Day. I'm Andrew Limbong, and today we're going to talk about
0:06.3	clothes. The things that you wear, that your kids wear, that famous people on movie screens wear,
0:12.2	they're all designed by someone. Someone has to say, let's put a belt on that dress, or a notch on that
0:17.7	lapel, or a rip in those jeans. And oftentimes, those people, these designers, are very well known among fashion people,
0:26.0	but not necessarily household names.
0:29.0	In a bit, we'll hear about a biography of the late Virgil Ablo,
0:32.3	one of the main figures responsible for the current enmeshing of hip-hop and high fashion
0:37.0	we're experiencing today.
0:39.2	But first, I spoke with the writer Elizabeth Evitz Dickinson about her new book,
0:43.3	about a designer who was just as influential, but whose name has been tucked away in the fashion
0:49.2	history books. The book is called Claire McCartle, the designer who set women free.
0:54.5	And if you've ever worn ballet flats or enjoy clothing that favors comfort over corsets,
1:01.0	you have McCartle to thank.
1:02.8	Find out more after the break.
1:05.1	In the U.S., national security news can feel far away from daily life.
1:09.9	Distant wars, murky conflicts, diplomacy behind closed doors.
1:14.4	On our new show, Sources and Methods.
1:16.4	NPR reporters on the ground bring you stories of real people,
1:20.2	helping you understand why distant events matter here at home.
1:23.8	Listen to sources and methods on the NPR app or wherever you get your podcasts.
1:29.3	Let's talk about pockets for a second.
1:31.4	When I wear a suit, I've got two front pockets and two back pockets on my pants.
	...

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