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The Atlas Obscura Podcast

Moynaq (Classic)

The Atlas Obscura Podcast

SiriusXM Podcasts & Atlas Obscura

Places & Travel, Society & Culture

4.61.8K Ratings

🗓️ 27 October 2025

⏱️ 16 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

A city in Uzbekistan used to be the site of one of the world’s largest seas. Now it’s a dusty reminder of one of the largest and most forgotten environmental disasters.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

In August of 2019, writer Jay Owens traveled to the remote deserts of northwestern Uzbekistan to a city called Moyniak.

0:10.6

She was there to research one of the largest catastrophes in environmental history, the drying up of an enormous body of water called the Aral Sea.

0:23.9

But what Jay actually found when she arrived was trippier than anything she could have imagined. I walk up to a stage set on the edge of a desert.

0:34.1

The music starts playing really good techno, really good sound system.

0:40.4

Well, the technically musicians from Berlin, from Japan, people who have played at Berghine

0:45.7

were coming to this tiny tumblebeed town in Western Uzbekistan.

0:51.5

There in the middle of the desert was a music festival. It was called Stihia, or

0:57.4

force of nature, and it was founded to draw attention to this environmental catastrophe

1:02.9

that had happened here. At one time, the Aral Sea had been the size of Ireland, but over the last

1:09.5

few decades, it had entirely disappeared.

1:14.0

And now, this music festival was bumping right there where the sea used to be.

1:22.6

You have world-class DJs playing astonishing, fantastic music, absolutely transformative,

1:30.3

into the open air, right at the end of the road on a cliff overlooking

1:36.3

what was once the Arles Sea, but is now empty sand.

1:39.3

And the sound just rings out for miles and miles into the desert night as lasers, trace the sky.

1:45.7

Absolutely sublime.

1:49.0

I'm Dylan Thuris, and this is Atlas Obscira, a celebration of the world's strange, incredible, and wondrous places.

1:56.9

Today, we're going to Moinac.

1:59.2

It is the city on the edge of what used to be one of the world's largest seas,

2:03.6

and the site of one of the world's most forgotten environmental disasters.

2:08.6

Writer Jay Owens tells us how Soviet-era industrialization changed the ecology of this region forever,

2:15.6

and how, today, the people who live there are considering

...

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