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I sang this a lot as a kid, but I didn't really stop to think about the lyrics, like the range where macho men on horseback are corralling hundreds of cows.

And the buffalo, they're mostly gone.

Home on the range is the official anthem of the State of Kansas, but it's also the unofficial theme song of the American West.

The Wild West of Buffalo Bill and the Mulberry Man.

The story of America, a kind of myth about America, a lot of them are predicated on this idea of a frontier, this idea of westward expansion and settlement.

And at the heart of that story is the spread of cattle ranching and cattle raising.

Josh Speck is a historian at the University of Notre Dame and the author of a new book called Red Meat Republic, a hoof-to-table history of how beef changed America.

And you are listening to Gastropod, the podcast that looks at food through the lens of science and history.

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