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You're built to win it. Welcome to Snewscast, the podcast designed to help you fall asleep. Find us on snewscast.com and listen to us wherever you listen to podcasts. This episode is brought to you by Cherry Marmalade. Tonight we'll read a selection of Marmalade and Sweet Meat Recipes from Miss Leslie's new cookery book, published in 1857. A type of sugar confectionery, Sweet Meat's, is where the term Sweet's comes from nowadays. Despite the name, they have nothing to do with meat, at least not in the way we think of it today.

The word meat in Old English simply meant food in general, which is why older texts sometimes use it in unexpected ways. In other words, we're talking about candy. Alaiza Leslie, the author of this cookbook, was one of the most influential culinary writers of 19th century America. Known for her precise detailed instructions, she catered to middle-class households eager to refine their domestic skills. Her recipes reflected the evolving taste of the time, blending European traditions with distinctly American ingredients and methods. From citrus preserves to candied nuts, the art of making sweet confections was a way to showcase both skill and hospitality. historical recipes offer a fascinating glimpse into the past,

not just in terms of flavors, but also in the way food was prepared and enjoyed, in an era before mass-produced candy. Let's get cozy. Close your eyes. Relax your body into the softness of your bed. Now, take a few, deep breaths. No sweet meats can either look well or taste well unless the fruit and the sugar are of the best quality.

As in all other branches of cookery, it is false economy to provide bad or low priced ingredients. It has of late years been difficult to obtain very good sugar at any price.

So much is adulterated with flour or ground starch. In the common powdered sugar, the flour is so palpable that we are surprised at it's having any sale at all. And the large quantity required to produce any perceptible sweetness renders it totally unfit for sweet mates, or indeed for anything else. In warm weather there is nothing better for a preserving fire than a portable charcoal furnace placed out in the open air of whatever the fire is made. It should be clear and steady without smoke or blaze. Never use copper or bell metal for either preserving or pickling. For all such purposes employ only iron lined with what is called porcelain or enamel. This lining will crack if the kettle is placed over a blaze, which it should never be. All sweet mates should be boiled with the lid off. If covered, the steam having no means of escaping returns upon them and causes them to look dark and unsightly. When done, put the sweet meat's warm into jars or glasses and leave them open a few hours that the watery particles may evaporate, but have them all pasted and closely covered before night. Do nothing to render your preserves hard or firm as it is called. It is better to have them soft and tender. The old custom of steeping them

for days in salt and water, and then boiling them in something else to remove the salt, is now considered foolish and is seldom practiced. Marmalade or jams?

Marmalade or jams Marmalade or jams are the easiest sweetmeats to make and are useful for all sweetmeat purposes. They are all made nearly in the same manner and to be very good and to keep well, at least a pound of fine sugar should be allowed to every pound of fruit, the fruit being quite ripe, freshly gathered, and of the best kind. For peach marmalade, take fine, juicy, peaches. Peer them, cut them in half, remove the stones, and let them be saved and the kernels extracted to use as bitter almonds. Cut up the peaches and allow for each pound a pound of sugar. Lay the peaches with all the sugar among them in a large pan or terrain and let them rust for three or four hours. the peaches and sugar together in a porcelain kettle without a cover for half an hour, skimming and stirring well. When it becomes a thick, smooth mass, it is finished. Put it up in glass jars and leave it uncovered till cool, but not longer. The flavor will be much improved by boiling with the peaches and sugar, one or two handfuls of the the kernels, blanched and pounded, or else a bunch of fresh peach leaves to be removed

after. of the kernels, blanched and pounded, or else a bunch of fresh peach leaves to be removed afterward. Quince Marmalade is made in the same manner. First, carefully removing all the blemishes, Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of quince's.

They must boil longer than peaches. All marmalades must be cooked till the form of the fruit is quite indistinguishable, until it meshes into a thick, smooth mass. Quince's should be allowed to remain on the trees till after the first frost, which greatly improves them. Persimmons and wild grapes are not edible till they are touched by the frost. Tomato marmalade. this when lemons are ripe and plenty to every 2 pounds of tomatoes, allow 2 pounds of sugar and the grated yellow rind and the juice of 1 lemon. The worst way of using lemons for any purpose is to merely slice them. Depend on the slices for flavoring and they are wasted, the taste being scarcely perceptible. They should always be first rolled under your hand, which increases the yield of juice. Then, grade off from the outside, the yellow rind only. The white part of the rind is worse than useless. And having cut the lemon, squeeze the juice through a tin strainer to exclude the seeds,

which otherwise would be troublesome to pick out. The yellow rind and the juice are all you need want of a lemon for any purpose of flavoring. Scall the tomatoes to make them peel easily and mix the sugar thoroughly with them. Boil them slowly for an hour in a porcelain kettle, skimming carefully and stirring well after each skimming. Add the lemon grate and the juice and boil the marmalade another half hour or till it is a thick smooth mass. Pumpkin marmalade. Take a fine ripe high-colored pumpkin, cut it up, empty it very clean of the seeds and strings,

take off a thick pairing, slice the pieces small and thin and weigh them.

To each pound of pumpkin, allow a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated peel and the juice of one large lemon. Pumpkin sweet mates require a high lemon flavoring. Boil the pumpkin alone till quite soft. Then mash it in a colander till the water is pressed out and the pumpkin left dry. Afterwards put it into a porcelain kettle, mix with it the sugar and lemon and boil it again till it becomes a thick jam. Pineapple Marmalade Take the best and ripest pineapples. Remove the leaves and split each pineapple into four pieces and cut out the core from the center. Stand the pieces upright in a deep dish and with a large coarse grater, grate down all the flesh of the fruit as it is cold. To every point of grated pineapple, allow a pound of powdered loaf sugar and put them together in a large

terrain. Let them rest two hours. Then transfer the whole to a porcelain kettle. Leave it uncovered and boil, skim and stir. Till it It becomes a very thick, marmalade.

When cool, put it up in glass jars. It is a very nice sweet meat, particularly for shells or tarts. Orange milk. Take four dozen large ripe juicy oranges and roll them under your hand. Cut them in two. Remove the seeds and squeeze the juice into a large clean stone jar. Have ready four pounds of the best double refined loaf sugar dissolved in a gallon

of French brandy. Pour it into the jar that contains the orange juice, stir the mixture

well, and add the yellow rind of the oranges, paired so thin from the white as to be transparent and divide it into bits. Cover the jar and let it stand for days, stirring it frequently. Then take a gallon of new, unskimmed milk, the morning's milk of that day. Boil it alone, and when it comes to a hard boil, pour it into the mixture of orange, sugar, and brandy. Cover it closely and let it stand till quite cold. Then strain it into another vessel through a linen jelly bag. Bottle it immediately and seal the quarks. It improves by keeping. To use it, pour it out in half tumblers and fill up with ice water or serve it round, undiluted and small, cordial glasses after ice cream. It is much admired and in orange countries may be made in large quantities. Lemon milk is made in the same manner, having a larger proportion of sugar. Brandy Peaches Take large, juicy, free-stone peaches, not so ripe as to burst or mash on being handled. Rub off the down from every one with a clean, thick flannel. Pick every peach down to the stone with a large silver fork and score them all along the seam or cleft. To each pound of peaches, allow a pound of double refined loaf sugar, broken up small, and a half pint of water, mixed with half a white of egg, slightly beaten. put the sugar into a porcelain kettle and pour the water upon it. When it is quite melted, give it a stirring, set it over the fire, and boil and skim till there is no more scum that rises. Next, put in the peaches and let them cook uncovered in the syrup till they look clear or for about half an hour or till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the kettle off the fireotted a pint of the very best white brandy to each pound of peaches, mix it with the syrup. After taking out the fruit with a wooden spoon and draining it over the kettle. Put the peaches into a large turin. Let the syrup remain in the kettle a little longer. Mix the brandy with it and boil them together 10 minutes or more. Transfer the peaches to large glass jars, two thirds full, and pour the brandy and syrup over them, filling quite up to the top. When cool, cover them closely, and tie some platter over the lids.

Green gauges are branded in the same way. Also, large egg plums. Pairs also, having first peeled them. pair sweet meats always add lemon-rind, grated, and lemon juice. Preserved tomatoes. This is an excellent and popular sweet meat when flavored well with lemon, which is indispensable to making it palatable. Also, it should be well penetrated with sugar, therefore it is best not to attempt preserving tomatoes whole. The best time for doing them is in the height of the lemon season. The most convenient for preserving are those with smooth even surfaces. If fluted or clapped, they are difficult to peel when scalded, as the skins do not strip off so easily. Having weighed the tomatoes, which must be full-grown quite ripe. Allow to every two pounds of the best brown sugar, a large spoonful of ground ginger, and the juice and grated yellow rind of one large ripe lemon. Rolled a while under your hand.

Having scalded and peeled all the tomatoes and mixed with the sugar, a little bead in white of egg,

put them into a porcelain lined preserving kettle uncovered and add gradually the sugar. Boil the tomatoes and sugar slowly together till the scum ceases to appear. Add gradually the lemons, peel and juice, and boil slowly for an hour or more. The tomatoes must all have bursted, otherwise they will not keep from the sugar not getting sufficiently into them. When done, take them off the fire and transfer to glass jars the tomatoes with their syrup. For yellow preserves, take yellow tomatoes, scald and peel them, and prick each with a silver fork. Lay them in a porcelain preserving cattle with plenty of fresh vine leaves under and over them. Boil them with the vine leaves till they become a finer yellow. Then wash out the cattle and and boil the tomatoes as above with the white sugar and add the lemon. Green tomatoes preserved. Take green tomatoes when they are full grown, but have not yet begun to turn in the least red, scald and peel them, and lay them in a porcelain kettle with plenty of fresh vine leaves at the bottom. Cover them thickly with another layer of vine leaves at the top. them very slowly with the vine leaves till they have all turned yellow. Then, take them out and spread them on large dishes. Wash the kettle, put in fresh vine leaves under and over the tomatoes. They should become a fine green with the second boiling in vine leaves. Otherwise repeat the greening. Then take them out, wash the kettle again, and return the tomatoes to it, with a pound and a half of white sugar to each pound of tomatoes. Boil and skim until all is clear and nice. Then add the grated yellow rind and the juice of one large lemon to every pound of tomatoes and boil slowly an hour or longer. All the tomatoes should burst that the sugar may thoroughly enter the inside. Before you cover the jars, stir into each an additional quarter or half pound of powdered sugar. Green tomatoes require a high flavoring of lemon as they have no peculiar taste of their own. Preserved quincess. Take the largest and ripest yellow quincis After they have remained on the trees till the first frost Wipe them clean and boil them whole till they are tender all through and can be easily penetrated with a splinter skewer. Save and strain the water in which they were boiled. When cool, pair and core the quenches and carefully remove the blemishes. every pound of fruit, allow a pound of the best double refined loaf sugar. Make a syrup of the water in which the quincees were boiled, allowing half a pint of this water to every pound of sugar. When melted, set it in a porcelain kettle over a moderate fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum appears. Then put in the fruit, either whole or quartered, or cut into circular slices about half an inch thick and boil it uncovered. When the quenches are quite clear and soft but not the least broken, take them out and spread them on large, flat dishes. Afterwards, transfer them to large glass jars, rather more than half filled. Pour the syrup warm over them, and when cool, cover the jars and tie pieces of of bladder over the covers. You may boil by themselves the cores and pairings in as much water as will cover them well until they are entirely dissolved. and strain them through a linen bag and while hot, stir in as much powdered loaf sugar as will form a thick jelly. If the quincees have been preserved whole, fill up with this jelly the holes left by the cores, or if sliced, spread the jelly over the slices. Quince is soon become very hard and tough, unless they have been well boiled by themselves before putting them into the sugar. merely scalding or coddling them is not sufficient.

If you have not jelly for filling up the holes, substitute marmalade to keep quince as well requires plenty of rich syrup. Preserved crab apples. Take the finest Siberian crab apples, which being always red and having a pleasant acid are the only sort now used for preserving. Rub each crab apple with a dry, clean flannel, and then prick every one in several places with a large needle to prevent their bursting. To every pound of fruit, allow a pound and a half of double refined loaf sugar and a point of water. First make a syrup of the sugar and water, boiling it in a porcelain kettle and skimming it till perfectly clear. Put in the crab apples, adding for each pound the juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. The lemon is indispensable to this sweet mate. Simmer them slowly in this syrup till tender all through so that they can be pierced with a twig of broom corn, but do not allow them to break. When done, put them up warm and glass jars more than half full and the syrup over them. Bellflower apples or large pipins may be preserved whole in the above manner. They look handsomely on a supper table, covered all over with a thick meringue or icing flavored with lemon or rose, and spread smoothly over every apple with a real rosebud stuck in the top of each. You may color the icing a beautiful pink. Fine preserved strawberries. Have ready two sorts of strawberries. being of the largest and finest scarlet sort, not too ripe. The other small and less expensive, but quite ripe and perfectly fresh and nice. Put the smaller ones into a porcelain kettle, having allowed three quarters of a pound of double refined loaf sugar to every quart of fruit. Boil the sugar and small strawberries together, skimming well and stirring down to the bottom after every skimming and mashing it to a jam. When done set it to cool in a large pan, wash the kettle clean or take another one and make in it a clear syrup, allowing to each pound of the best loaf sugar a small half pint of water. When melted, set it over the fire, and boil and skim to the scum ceases to rise. Put the large strawberries in this and give them one boil up. If boil too long they will break. As soon as they have come to a boil take them one at a time with a silver teaspoon and lay them separately on large flat dishes. Then mix the syrup with the jam thoroughly together and boil it a quarter of an hour. Put the large strawberries one at a time into glass jars, more than half full, and fill up to the top with the hot jam. When cool, lay a round of brandy paper on the surface and secure the lids by tying pieces of bladder over them. Strawberries in wine Put a small quart of fine, large, scarlet strawberries into a glass jar Having sprinkled among them a quarter of a pound of the best loaf sugar, fill up the jar with Madira or Sherry. They are served at parties in small glass saucers, heaped on the top with whipped cream or with white ice cream. What is sold by many confectioners as strawberry ice cream has in reality no strawberries about it has maybe known by its beautiful rose color such as strawberry juice never, particularly after being preserved with sugar. This fine, delicate pink tinge comes in reality from alkanat. Most of what is called strawberry cordial is in reality alcohol colored with that elegant dye. For strawberry wine, fill four glass jars holding each a quart with fine ripe strawberries that have been hauled or picked clean, Cover them, set them in a large kettle of cold water, and place it in a moderate heat till it gradually comes to a boil. Then let it boil, but five minutes.

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