Music Welcome to Snewscast. The podcast is designed to help you fall asleep. Find us at snoozecast.com and if you enjoy our show, please share us with a friend. This episode is brought to you by a little country house. Tonight, we'll read from the third chapter of British naturalist Charles Darwin's The Voyage of the Beagle. This chapter explores the area around coastal Uruguay and Argentina. Starting in the town of Maldonado, Darwin describes the unique behaviors of the local wildlife, like ostriches and capybarras and the customs of the local landowners and gouchos or cowboys. He encounters curious locals who are fascinated by his pocket compass and matchsticks. The voyage of the Beagle is the title most commonly given to the book published in 1839 as Darwin's journal and remarks, bringing him considerable fame and respect. If you'd like to start from the beginning, the first of this series aired on June 10, 2024, and the second aired a month later. Let's get cozy. Close your eyes. Relax your body into the softness of your bed. Now take a few deep breaths. July 5th, 1832. In the morning we got underway and stood out of the splendid harbor of Rio de Janeiro. In our passage we saw nothing particular, accepting on one day a great show of porpoises, many hundreds and number. The whole sea was in places furrowed by them, and a most extraordinary spectacle was presented, as hundreds, proceeding together by jumps in which their whole bodies were exposed, thus cut the water. When the ship was running nine knots an hour, these animals could cross and re-cross the bows with the greatest of ease, and then dash away right ahead. As soon as we entered the estuary, the weather was very unsettled. One dark night we were surrounded by numerous seals and penguins, which made such strange noises that the officer on watch reported he could hear the cattle bellowing on shore. On a second night, we witnessed a splendid scene of natural fireworks. The mast had, and yarn arm ends, shown with St. Elmo's light, and the form of the vein could almost be traced, as if it had been rubbed with phosphorus.

The sea was so highly luminous that the tracks of the penguins were marked by a fiery wake, and the darkness of the sky was momentarily illuminated by the most vivid lightning. And within the mouth of the river I was interested by observing how slowly the waters of the sea and river mixed, the latter muddy and discolored from its less specific gravity floated on the surface of the saltwater. This was curiously exhibited in the wake of the vessel, where a line of blue water was seen mingling in little eddies with the adjoining fluid. July 26th We anchored at Montevideo. The Beagle was employed in surveying the extreme southern and eastern coasts of America during the two succeeding years. To prevent useless repetitions, I will extract those parts of my journal which refer to the same districts. always attending to the order in which we visited them. Maldonado. Maldonado is situated on the northern bank of the Plata, and not very far from the mouth of the estuary. It is a most quiet, forlorn little town, built as is universally the case in these countries with the streets running at right angles to each other, and having in the middle a large plaza or square, which from its size renders the scantiness of the population more evident. It possesses scarcely any trade. The exports being confined to a few hides and living cattle. The inhabitants are chiefly landowners, together with a few shopkeepers and the necessary tradesmen, such as blacksmiths and carpenters, who do nearly all the business for a circuit of 50 miles round. The town is separated from the river by a band of sand hillocks about a mile broad. It is surrounded on all other sides by an open, slightly undulating country, covered by one uniform layer of fine green turf on which countless herds of cattle, sheep, and horses graze. There is very little land cultivated even close to the town. A few hedges, made of cacti and agave, mark out where some wheat or Indian corn has been planted. The features of the country are very similar along the whole northern bank of the Planta. The only difference is that here the granitic hills are a little bolder. The scenery is very uninteresting. There is scarcely a house, an enclosed piece of ground, or even a tree to give it an air of cheerfulness. Yet, after being imprisoned for some time in a ship, there is a charm in the unconfined feeling of walking over boundless plains of turf. Moreover, if your view is limited to a small space, many objects possess beauty. Some of the smaller birds are brilliantly colored, and the bright green sword, browsed short by the cattle, is ornamented by dwarf flowers, among which a plant, looking like the daisy, claimed the place of an old friend. What would a florist say to hold tracks so thickly covered as even at a distance to appear of the most gaudy scarlet. I stayed ten weeks at Maldonado, in which time a nearly perfect collection of the animals, birds, and reptiles was procured. Before making any observations respecting them, I will give an account of a little excursion I made as far as the river, Polanco, which is about 70 miles distant in a northerly direction. On the first night we slept at a retired little country house, and there I soon found out that I possessed two or three articles, especially a pocket compass, which created unbounded astonishment. In every house, I was asked to show the compass, and by its aid, together with a map, to point out the direction of various places. It excited the liveliest admiration that I, a perfect stranger, should know the road for direction and road are synonymous in this open country, to places I had never been. At one house, a young woman who was ill in bed sent to entreat me to come and show her the compass. If their surprise was great, mine was greater, to find such ignorance among people who possessed their thousands of cattle and estesias of great extent. It can only be accounted for by the circumstance that this retired part of the country is seldom visited by foreigners. I was asked whether the earth or sun moved, whether it was hotter or colder to the north, where Spain was, and many other such questions. The greater number of the inhabitants had an indistinct idea that England, London, and North America were different names for the same place. The veteran formed well knew that London and North America were different names for the same place, but the better informed well knew that London and North America were separate countries close together, and that England was a large town in London. I carried with me some Promethean matches, which I ignited by biting. It was thought so wonderful that a man should strike fire with his teeth, that it was usual to collect the whole family to see it. I was once offered a dollar for a single one. Washing my face in the morning caused much speculation at the village of Las Menias. A superior tradesman closely crossed question to me about so singular a practice. And likewise, why on board we wore our beards, for he had heard from my guide that we did so. He hid me with much suspicion. It is the general custom in this country to ask for a night's lodging at the first convenient house. The astonishment at the compass and my other feats of jugglery was to a certain degree advantageous, as with that, and the long stories my guides told of my breaking stones, collecting insects, etc., I repaid them for their hospitality. The next day we rode to the village of Las Menias. The country was rather more hilly, but otherwise continued the same. An inhabitant of the pompous snow doubt would have considered it as truly alpine. The country is so thinly inhabited that during the whole day we scarcely met a single person. Lasmenius is much smaller even than Maldonado. It is seated on a little plane and is surrounded by low rocky mountains. It is of the usual symmetrical form, and with its white-wash church standing in the center had rather pretty appearance. The outskirting houses rose out of the plain like isolated beings with the accompaniment of gardens or courtyards. This is generally the case in the country, and all the houses have in consequence an uncomfortable aspect. At night, we stopped at a drinking shop. During the evening, a great number of gouchos came into drink spirits and smoke cigars. Their appearance is very striking. They are generally tall and handsome, but with a proud and disillute expression of countenance. They frequently wear their mustaches and long black hair curling down their backs. their brightly colored garments, great spurs clinking about their heels and knives stuck as daggers, and often so used at their wastes. They look quite different than their name of gouchos or simple countrymen might imply.

Their politeness is excessive. They never drink their spirits without expecting you to taste it. But whilst making their exceedingly graceful bow, they seem quite as ready if occasion offered to attack. In the third day, we pursued rather an irregular course, as I was employed in examining some beds of marble. On the fine plains of turf, we saw many ostriches. Struthio-raya, some of the flocks contained as many as twenty or thirty birds. These, when standing on any little eminence, and seen against the clear sky, presented a very noble appearance. I never met with such tame ostriches in any other part of the country. It was easy to gallop up within a short distance of them, but then, expanding their wings, they made all sail right before the wind, and soon left the horse astern. At night, we came to the house of Don Juan Fuenteis, a rich landed proprietor, but not personally known to either of my companions. On approaching the house of a stranger, it is usual to follow several little points of etiquette, riding up slowly to the door. The salutation of Ave Maria is given, and until somebody comes out and asks you to a light, it is not customary even to get off your horse. The formal answer of the owner is Sim Piccato Consubeda, that is conceived without sin. Having entered the house, some general conversation is kept up for a few minutes.

Till permission is asked to pass the night there. This is granted as a matter of course. The stranger then takes his meals with the family, and a room is assigned him. where, with the horsecl cloth belonging to his Ricardo, or saddle of the pompous, he makes his bed. It is curious how similar circumstances produce such similar results and manners. At the Cape of Good Hope, the same hospitality and very nearly the same points of etiquette are universally observed. The difference, however, between the character of the Spaniard and that of the Dutch is shown by the former never asking his guest a single question beyond the strictest rule of politeness. falseed the honest Dutchman, the man's where he has been, where he is going, and what is his business, and even how many brothers, sisters, or children he may happen to have. Shortly after our arrival at Don Wands, one of the largest herds of cattle was driven in towards the house. These half-wild cattle are very active, and they led the horses along and laborious chase. After witnessing the rude wealth displayed in the number of cattle, men and horses, Don Wan's miserable house was quite curious. The floor consisted of hardened mud, and the windows were without glass. The sitting room boasted only of a few of the roughest chairs and stools, with a couple of tables. The supper, although several strangers were present, consisted of two huge piles, one of roast beef, the other of boiled, with some pieces of pumpkin. Besides this latter, there was no other vegetable, and not even a morsel of bread. For drinking, a large earthenware jug of water served the whole party. Yet this man was the owner of several square miles of land, of which nearly every acre would produce corn, and with a little trouble all the common vegetables. The evening was spent in smoking, with a little impromptu singing accompanied by the guitar. The Senoritas all sat together in one corner of the room, and did not sup with the men. So many works have been written about these countries that it is almost superfluous to describe either the lasso or the bolas. Lasso consists of a very strong but thin, well-plated rope made of raw hide. The goucho, when he is going to use the lasso, keeps a small coil in his bridal hand, and in the other holds the running news, which is made very large, generally having a diameter of about eight feet. This, he whirls round his head, and by the dexterous movement of his wrist keeps the news open, then throwing it, he causes it to fall on any particular spot he chooses. The lasso, and not used, is tied up in a small coil to the the after part of the recado. The bolas or balls are of two kinds, the simplest which is chiefly used for catching ostriches consists of two round stones covered with leather and untied by a thin plated thong about eight feet long.

The other kind differs only in having three balls united by the thongs to a common center. The goucho holds the smallest of the three in his hand, and whirls the other two round and round his head. Then, taking aim, sends them like chain-shot revolving through the air. The balls no sooner strike any object than winding round it, they cross each other, and become firmly hitched. The size and weight of the balls vary according to the purpose for which they are made. When of stone, although not larger than an apple, they are sent with such force. I have seen the balls made of wood, and as large as a turnip for the sake of catching these animals without injuring them. the balls are sometimes made of iron, and these can be hurvelled to the greatest distance. The main difficulty in using either lasso or bolas is to ride so well as to be able at full speed and while suddenly turning about to whirl them so steadily round the head, as to take aim on foot any person would soon learn the art. One day, as I was amusing myself by galloping and whirling the balls round my head, by accident, the free one struck a bush, and its revolving motion, being thus destroyed, it immediately fell to the ground. And, like magic, caught one hind leg of my horse. The other ball was then jerked out of my hand, and the horse fairly secured. Luckily, he was an old practiced animal, and knew what it meant. Otherwise, he would probably have kicked till he had thrown himself down. The gavchoes roared with laughter. They cried out that they had seen every sort of animal caught, but had never before seen a man caught by himself. During the two succeeding days, I reached the furthest point which I was anxious to examine. The country wore the same aspect. Till at last, the fine green turf became more wearer-some than a dusty turnpike road. We everywhere saw great numbers of partridges.

These more wear some than a dusty turnpike road. We everywhere saw great numbers of partridges. These birds do not go in coves, nor do they conceal themselves like the English kind. It appears a very silly bird. On our return to Maldonado, we followed rather a different line of road. Near Palanday Azucar, a landmark well known to all those who have sailed up the plata, I stayed a day at the house of a most hospitable old Spaniard. in the morning we ascended the Sierra de las Animas. By the aid of the rising sun, the scenery was almost picturesque. To the westward, the view extended over an immense level plain. And to the eastward, over the country of Maldonado, on the summit of the mountain, there were several small heaps of stones, which evidently had lain there for many years. My companion assured me that they were the work of the indigenous in the old time. The heaps were similar, but on a much smaller scale, to those so commonly found on the mountains of Wales. The desire to signalize any event on the highest point of the neighboring land seems a universal passion with mankind. At the present day, not a single person exists in this part of the province. Nor am I aware that the former inhabitants have left behind any more permanent records than these piles on the summit of the Sierra de Las Animas. The general, and almost entire absence of trees and bonda oriental, is remarkable. Some of the rocky hills are partly covered by thickets, and on the banks of the larger streams, especially to the north of Las Menias,

Willow trees are not uncommon. Near the Arroyo Topes, I heard of a wood of palms, and one of these trees, of considerable size. I saw near the Ponday Azucar in latitude 35 degrees. These and the trees planted by the Spaniards offer the only exceptions to the general scarcity of wood. And among the introduced kinds, maybe enumerated poplars, olives, peach, and other fruit trees. The peaches succeeded so well that they afford the main supply of firewood to the city of Buenos areas. Extremely level countries such as the pompous seldom appear favorable to the growth of trees. This may possibly be attributed either to the force of the winds or the kind of drainage. In the nature of the land, however around Maldonado, no such reason is apparent. The rocky mountains of fort protected situations, enjoying various kinds of soil, streamlets of water are common at the bottoms of nearly every valley, and the clayy nature of the earth seems adapted to retain moisture. It has been inferred with much probability that the presence of woodland is generally determined by the annual mount of moisture, yet in this province abundant and heavy rainfalls during the winter and the summer, though dry, is not so in any excessive degree. We see nearly the whole of Australia covered by lofty trees. Yet that country possesses a far more erud climate. Hence we must look to some other and unknown cause. Confining our view to South America, we should certainly be tempted to believe that trees is flourished only under a humid climate. For the limit of the forest land follows in a most remarkable manner that of the day at winds. In the southern part of the continent where the western gales charged with moisture from the Pacific, prevail every island on the broken west coast, from latitude 38 degrees to the extreme point of Tierra D'Wolfwago, is densely covered by impenetrable forests. On the eastern side of the Cordelia, over the same extent of latitude, where a blue sky and a fine climate prove that the atmosphere has been deprived of its moisture by passing over the mountains, the arid plains of Patagonia support a most scanty vegetation. Yn yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n yw'n y