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The Dirtbag Diaries

Live from 5Point Vol. 8

The Dirtbag Diaries

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.82.6K Ratings

🗓️ 28 May 2015

⏱️ 36 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In our fifth annual "Live from 5Point" Film Festival, we interviewed Frank Sanders and Tommy Caldwell. Frank spent his youth climbing on the East Coast. His path took a turn in 1972, when he hitchhiked west and saw Devil's Tower for the first time. Now, at 63, Frank owns and guides out of Devil's Tower Lodge. He shares the story of his journey and what it's like having found his place. Over the last seven years, Tommy has spent months at a time focused on climbing The Dawn Wall, the hardest big wall climb in history. On January 14th, he and his partner, Kevin Jorgenson, pulled over the top of El Capitan into a swarm of cameras and microphones. He talks to Fitz about what it's like to end a seven-year relationship with a project and how his life has changed now that people outside the climbing world recognize him.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

Of course, like every other teenage kid, I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life.

0:06.8

When I was 16 years old, I took off and drove across the country to Wyoming.

0:11.8

Went into the Wind River Range and discovered mountains.

0:15.5

In 1973, Yvonne Chinard founded Patagonia.

0:18.8

I never wanted to be a businessman.

0:23.4

All I wanted to do was do my craft and climb mountains.

0:29.8

So then I had to figure out a way to where I was going to be a businessman, but I was going

0:36.5

to do it completely on my own terms.

0:39.9

Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, inspire and implement solutions to the

0:46.1

environmental crisis.

0:48.3

Join us at Patagonia.com.

0:59.6

We're listening to The Dirt Bag Diaries, a production of Duck Tape Than Beer, with additional

1:04.9

support from New Belgium Brewing and Kuat Racks.

1:18.7

Storytelling has become a bit of a buzzword in both our outdoor world and beyond.

1:24.0

And as someone who spent a lot of time actually more than half their life working on telling

1:28.7

stories, I think it's pretty darn cool.

1:32.4

For the longest time though, I didn't really see it coming through an outdoor filmmaking.

1:36.0

It was about NAR, Radness, and the sickest camera coupled with the sickest helicopter.

1:41.6

And then I got invited to this festival in a small town in Colorado.

1:45.2

It was called Five Point Film Festival.

1:47.5

It wasn't the biggest or the most high profile festival, but it was clear that the founders

1:52.5

did more than pay homage to the story.

...

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