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The New Yorker Radio Hour

Kelly Slater’s Perfect Wave Brings Surfing to a Crossroads

The New Yorker Radio Hour

WNYC Studios and The New Yorker

Politics, Arts, News, Wnyc, Books, David, Storytelling, Society & Culture, Yorker, New, Remnick

4.26.2K Ratings

🗓️ 27 December 2019

⏱️ 24 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In December of 2015, a video appeared on the Internet that stunned surfers worldwide. Titled “Kelly’s Wave,” it showed Kelly Slater—arguably the best pro surfer in history—unveiling a secret project he had been working on for more than a decade. With the help of engineers and designers, Slater had perfected the first artificial wave, created by machine in a pool, that could rival the best waves found in the ocean. “One could spend years and years surfing in the ocean,” the staff writer William Finnegan, himself a lifelong surfer, notes, “and never get a wave as good as what some people are getting here today. Ever.”    Finnegan went to visit the Kelly Slater Wave Company’s Surf Ranch—a facility in California’s Central Valley, far from the Coast—to observe a competition and test the wave for himself. (He wrote about the experience in The New Yorker.) Up until now, surfing was defined by its lack of predictability: chasing waves around the world and dealing with disappointment when they do not appear has been integral to the life of a surfer. But, with a mechanically produced, infinitely repeatable, world-class wave, surfing can become like any other sport. The professional World Surf League, which has bought a controlling interest in Slater’s company, sees a bright future.   But Finnegan wonders what it means to take surfing out of nature. Will kids master riding artificial waves without even learning to swim in the ocean? Finnegan spoke with Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore (the Australian seven-time world champion), and Matt Warshaw (the closest thing surfing has to an official historian). Warshaw, like Finnegan, is skeptical about the advent of mechanical waves. Yet he admits that, when he had the chance to ride it, he didn’t ever want to stop. “It reminded me of 1986,” Warshaw recalls. “The drugs have run out, you already hate yourself—how do we get more?”   This story originally aired December 14, 2018.

Transcript

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0:00.0

From One World Trade Center in Manhattan, this is The New Yorker Radio Hour, a co-production of WNYC Studios and The New Yorker.

0:12.2

Welcome to The New Yorker Radio Hour. I'm David Remnick.

0:16.0

I'm driving through farmland outside Lamour, California. It's pretty morning, low sun. Some of the

0:26.4

fields are green. A lot of the fields are brown. Some have gone to weeds. Lines of eucalyptus.

0:32.9

William Finnegan is one of the very best reporters I've ever seen in action, and without a doubt,

0:38.1

he's the greatest surfer I've ever met.

0:39.9

He wrote a terrific memoir about his lifelong passions for the sport.

0:44.0

It's called Barbarian Days, and it won the Pulitzer Prize.

0:48.0

And that might explain why Bill in 2018 found himself driving through the Central Valley

0:53.8

Farm Country of California.

0:58.5

Now passing what looks like a jogging surfer out the middle of nowhere.

1:07.5

We're getting near the Surf Ranch Pro,

1:11.2

this pro surfing competition going on this weekend.

1:24.1

A few years ago in December of 2015, something happened that sent an incredible shockwave through the world of surfing.

1:33.3

Kelly Slater, who's the consensus best surfer in history, dropped a video on the internet called Kelly's Wave.

1:41.3

This is our little secret spot, about 110 miles from the coast.

1:46.1

You see this misty pond daybreak.

1:49.6

And then we pan to this wave that's peeling along down this long pond.

1:54.6

It's an artificial wave. It's not in the ocean.

2:00.0

It's incredibly precise machine tool, like it's really glassy.

2:05.6

We don't know how big it is, but then Slater paddles out and takes off on a wave, and it's six feet.

2:12.6

I mean, it's just the most incredible wave you've ever seen.

...

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