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Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

June 6th - Everest’s unsolved mystery: Did Mallory and Irvine Reach the Summit?

Simon Calder's Independent Travel Podcast

The Independent

Places & Travel, Leisure, Society & Culture

3.6628 Ratings

🗓️ 6 June 2024

⏱️ 13 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

It’s the centenary of one of the most celebrated mysteries in the history of mountaineering: did George Mallory and Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine reach the summit of Everest on 6 June 1924 – nearly three decades before the first documented climb to the top of the world?


Mallory’s body was found in 1999 on a research expedition organised by today’s guest, Graham Hoyland – who himself has reached the summit of Everest, and is the author of Last Hours on Everest: The Gripping Story of Mallory & Irvine’s Fatal Ascent.


Graham will be speaking at the annual Sir Edmund Hillary Memorial event takes place at the Royal Geographical Society in London on Saturday 8th June – tickets are still available from HimalayanTrust.co.uk


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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello and welcome to today's independent travel podcast with me, Simon Calder.

0:09.0

It's Thursday, the 6th of June, the centenary of one of the most celebrated mysteries in the history of mountaineering.

0:16.3

Did George Mallory and Andrew Sandy Irvin reached the summit of Everest on the 6th of June

0:23.6

1924, nearly three decades before the first documented climb to the summit?

0:30.6

The climbers were last seen by a geologist Noel O'Dell, high on the northeast ridge of the

0:36.6

planet's highest mountain and still going strong for the summit.

0:40.5

Then the clouds rolled in and they were never seen alive again.

0:45.2

Today's guest, Graham Hoyland, knows more about this story than anyone else.

0:50.1

He's reached the summit of Everest and he's the author of Last Hours on Everest,

0:56.0

the gripping story of Mallory and Irvin's fatal ascent.

1:00.2

Graham, welcome to the podcast. Can you set the scene a century ago?

1:06.2

Well, a century ago, the British were trying for the third time to climb Mount Everest.

1:13.6

There'd been a reconnaissance in 1921 with George Mallory, figuring out what the mountain was like.

1:20.6

Then in 1922, my uncle, Howard Somerville, was also on the expedition and they tried to climb the mountain

1:29.0

but unfortunately this time there was an avalanche and seven Sherpas were killed.

1:34.5

And then in 1924 Howard Somerville again tried to climb the mountain this time without

1:39.8

any oxygen and got very high up to 28,000 feet, a thousand feet from the summit, and got frostbite

1:48.4

in his larynx, sat down to die, but managed to crawl back down, and then Mallory set off with

1:55.2

the young Sandy Irvin up into the clouds and was never seen again.

1:59.3

Is it the case that we still don't know whether they made it,

2:03.6

or indeed, if anybody made it before, of course, Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953?

2:09.4

Well, it's true to say that we don't know for sure who climbed Everest first.

...

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