Is kitchen culture changing?
The Food Chain
BBC
4.7 • 545 Ratings
🗓️ 1 April 2026
⏱️ 27 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Is the culture of professional kitchens shifting?
In recent weeks, one of the restaurant world’s most influential figures stepped down amid allegations about his conduct at work. It’s been widely reported that former employees accused René Redzepi, founder of Copenhagen’s Noma, of creating a toxic working environment involving verbal and physical abuse. Redzepi has since apologised publicly, saying he has worked to change.
Ruth Alexander uses this moment as a starting point to explore a broader question: what is, and what should be, the culture inside professional kitchens?
For many chefs, stories of gruelling hours, intense pressure and explosive tempers have long been part of the industry. But are those conditions still the norm today, or is a different kind of kitchen culture beginning to take shape?
Ruth is joined by three chefs from different generations and parts of the world, each reflecting on their own experiences of coming up in the industry, and how those experiences have shaped the way they run their kitchens now.
Jun Tanaka, chef-owner of Michelin-starred restaurant The Ninth in London, looks back on starting out more than three decades ago. Preeti Mistry, executive chef at Silver Oak in California, shares her perspective after 25 years in the industry. And Manon Fleury, head chef at Datil in Paris and co-founder of an organisation working to prevent violence in kitchens, explains why she believes change is both necessary and possible.
They discuss whether the old hierarchies and harsh environments are being left behind, what a healthier kitchen culture could look like, and what still needs to change.
If you would like to get in touch with the show, please email: thefoodchain@bbc.co.uk
Producer: Izzy Greenfield Sound engineer: Annie Gardiner Image: credit - getty
Transcript
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| 0:28.3 | and their company. They are the equivalent of royalty. Listen first on BBC Sounds. |
| 0:35.3 | In recent weeks, one of the most influential figures in the restaurant industry has stepped |
| 0:40.7 | down amid allegations about his conduct in the kitchen. It's been widely reported that former |
| 0:46.7 | employees have accused René Redseppe of Noma of creating a toxic work environment involving |
| 0:52.9 | verbal and physical abuse. |
| 0:55.4 | Redseppe, whose restaurant business is based in Copenhagen, Denmark, but has had pop-ups around |
| 1:00.4 | the world, responded on social media, saying, to those who have suffered under my leadership, |
| 1:06.1 | my bad judgment or my anger, I am deeply sorry and I've worked to change. This is the food chain from |
| 1:14.0 | the BBC World Service with me, Ruth Alexander. Today, we're not going to examine the specifics |
| 1:19.4 | of that case, but rather the wider culture of professional kitchens, because this isn't new. |
| 1:26.5 | For years on this programme, chefs have talked about their |
| 1:29.4 | training way back when, where grueling long hours, intense pressure and hot tempers were just |
| 1:36.4 | part of the job. And we've been wondering, was this just the way things were done then, or is it |
| 1:42.7 | the way they're still done now? |
| 1:46.2 | To explore this, I've been talking to three chefs who came up through those kind of kitchens |
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