Is it last orders for the wine industry?
The Inquiry
BBC
4.6 • 1.7K Ratings
🗓️ 9 December 2025
⏱️ 24 minutes
🧾️ Download transcript
Summary
Changing tastes, climatic conditions, health warnings, economic factors are all creating a perfect storm for the global wine industry. The origins of wine-making date back to around 9,000 years ago, when it was a drink mostly associated with elite society. Since then, it has had a long association with major occasions like weddings and funerals, as the beverage of choice. And it has been integral to different forms of worship and spirituality. Up until the 20th Century it was even considered a healthy tipple.
But demand for wine has been steadily declining across the globe. In France, home to some of the world’s most famous brands, the government has now had to step in to support the producers and their vineyards. And there is increasing competition everywhere from both the beer and spirits industry, who are marketing more alcohol-free or low-alcohol options. Is it last orders for the wine industry?
We speak to four key experts: Jane Anson, author, wine critic, Bordeaux, France; Roderick Phillips, author, professor of History, Carleton University, Ottawa, Canada; Stefano Castriota, author, professor of Economics, University of Pisa, Italy; Peter McAtamney, founder of Wine Business Solutions, New South Wales, Australia.
Presenter: Charmaine Cozier Producer: Jill Collins Researcher: Evie Yabsley Production management assistant: Liam Morrey Sound engineer: Mark Burrows Editor: Tom Bigwood
(Photo: A bunch of grapes. Credit: Gabriel Bouys/AFP)
Transcript
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| 0:00.0 | BBC Sounds, Music, radio, podcasts. |
| 0:05.6 | Welcome to the inquiry from the BBC World Service. I'm Charmaine Cozier. |
| 0:10.9 | Each week, one question, four expert witnesses, and an answer. |
| 0:16.5 | November 2025, southern France. |
| 0:20.1 | Thousands of winemakers and growers march through the city of Bessier. |
| 0:24.9 | Many are waving flags and banners. |
| 0:27.4 | It sounds like a celebration, but it's a major protest. |
| 0:31.3 | A message on one large green bottle-shaped sign translates as justice for the wine. Falling sales and rising costs are |
| 0:40.3 | driving the industry to breaking point. There are also other domestic, international, gradual and |
| 0:46.1 | sudden factors in play. The demonstrators want more government support to navigate the crisis. |
| 0:52.6 | France isn't the only major producing nation reeling from multiple |
| 0:56.9 | relentless setbacks. This is a worldwide problem. So this week we're asking, is it last |
| 1:04.4 | orders for the wine industry? Part one, in the Reds. |
| 1:13.1 | If you had to pick one one country to always drink wine from which one would you choose, |
| 1:17.9 | it's hard not to say that it would be France. |
| 1:20.5 | You have the world's most famous examples of pretty much every type of wine. |
| 1:28.1 | Jane Anson is a wine critic and author of many books, |
| 1:32.1 | including a wine guide called Inside Bordeaux. |
| 1:35.0 | So the world's most famous Pinot Noir comes from France, so from Burgundy. |
| 1:39.3 | The world's most famous Cabinet Sauvignon comes from France, so Bordeaux. |
| 1:43.2 | The world's most famous sparkling wine, |
| 1:45.4 | champagne. You know, this is about history and longevity, and it's allowed these regions to really be at |
... |
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