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The Story

How to buy a happy chicken

The Story

[email protected]

Politics, Daily News, News

41.5K Ratings

🗓️ 8 April 2025

⏱️ 26 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Britain’s obsessed with chicken - we eat more than a billion birds a year. And to (literally) feed our hunger, many farmers have turned to fast-growing birds. But now, a new initiative is persuading supermarkets and restaurants to try a slower-growing breed. Will it mean higher-welfare birds? 

This podcast was brought to you thanks to the support of readers of The Times and The Sunday Times. Subscribe today: http://thetimes.com/thestory


Guest: Harry Wallop, Columist and Feature Writer, The Times.

Host: Luke Jones.

Producer: Olivia Case.

Clips: Internet Archive / Prelinger Archives / The Chicken of Tomorrow (1948).

Photo: Getty Images.

Get in touch: [email protected]


Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

From The Times and the Sunday Times, this is the story. I'm Luke Jones.

0:11.8

When going to a supermarket, a restaurant, going to the takeaway, would you know if yours was a happy chicken?

0:18.9

If you're interested in chicken welfare, then you want to recreate essentially the jungle.

0:25.5

You want to allow a bird to be a bird, a chicken to display its chickenness in the wild, inside a bar.

0:36.1

But also, there's increasing concern and attention on how fast your chicken was made to grow.

0:43.1

The difference between a fast-growing chicken and a slow-growing chicken is hard to tell if you're a layman.

0:49.1

If you went into a classic poultry farm and you went into one of the barns where they're raised.

0:55.5

You just see a carpet of feathers.

0:57.7

Very cute, fluffy little yellow things.

0:59.6

If they're just a day old, slightly noisier, bigger, less fluffy when they're a few weeks old.

1:06.2

But in many cases, the slow growing birds come alongside other higher welfare standards. So there might

1:14.2

be more light in the shed. There might be more things for the birds to play with, to perch on.

1:20.1

And that will involve mostly perches and hay bales and things like that.

1:32.8

Some supermarkets and restaurants have already pledged to only have the slower growing chicken, part of a new better chicken commitment.

1:36.9

But is it any better for the poor old birds?

1:39.7

What are the options?

1:41.2

And how did chicken, fried, roasted, grilled, whatever, come to rule the roost as the UK's

1:47.1

top meat? The story today? How to buy a happy chicken?

2:06.9

My name's Harry Wallop. I'm a freelance journalist. I'm a regular contributor to The Times.

2:11.5

And one of the things I specialize in is long features, analyzing consumer trends.

2:21.0

Well, we're talking about chickens today. And when you were looking into, first of all, the UK's obsession with chicken, you took a particular path, didn't you? Chicken shops. Why that?

2:25.6

I'm certainly not the first person to have spotted the proliferation of chicken shops on the

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