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A now a new series, hard lessons from Afghanistan.

The BBC's former Kabul correspondent, Alan Johnston,

looks back over 30 years of conflict and chaos.

Part one, trapping the bear.

I remember my first journey to Afghanistan.

Because I arrived at the top of the Kaiba Pass at prayer time,

the huge blue gate that marked the border was closed.

And so I waited and wondered,

and it'll scared by what might lie before me.

At that stage, after nearly 20 years of conflict,

the Afghan civil war was still raging.

Most of the capital lay in ruins,

and around one and a half million people were dead.

And when the big blue gate did finally swing open,

I walked through the mud to a small customs post

that had no heat or light.

In a corner in the freezing gloom,

I could just make out a man who emerged slowly from beneath a blanket

to ask for my passport.

...