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The Business of Fashion Podcast

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson on Building a Better Fashion Industry

The Business of Fashion Podcast

The Business of Fashion

Fashion & Beauty, Business, Arts

4.6770 Ratings

🗓️ 24 November 2023

⏱️ 50 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The stylist and fashion editor reveals to BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed why she resigned from Vogue and how she is channelling her influence and energy to support that next generation of fashion talent.


Background:


In the dynamic world of fashion magazines, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson stands out. Karefa-Johnson has always stood out, growing up as a self-described loud, weird, driven kid. Karefa-Johnson’s first Vogue cover was Paloma Elsesser for the January 2021 issue of Vogue, photographed by Annie Leibovitz. Later that year, she worked on the cover shoot featuring US Vice President Kamala Harris. 


But recently, Karefa-Johnson decided to leave Vogue. “The truth of the matter is we grow and sometimes our containers don't grow with us. And so I am excited to build a new container for all of these ideas and this energy,” Karefa-Johnson says.


This week on The BoF Podcast, Karefa-Johnson joins BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss her professional journey, how she harnesses her creative energy in a high-pressure industry and why she is laying the foundation for the next generation of fashion creatives. 


Key Insights: 


  • On excelling in the demanding, hyper-creative world of fashion media, Karefa-Johnson avoids burnout by focusing on her inner self. “Staying true to who you are and… really maintaining the purity of that creative exchange is something that keeps me grounded,” she says.


  • Looking back at some of her most challenging assignments, Karefa-Johnson recalls the 2021 cover shoot during the Covid-19 pandemic with US Vice President Kamala Harris. “It's very hard to communicate with your subject, which is super crucial in executing an image. You need to have a relationship and a rapport and there needs to be mutual trust,” she explains. “But it's hard to establish that between 15 masks, because it was during Covid, 14 secret service agents, a press secretary and a chief of staff.” 


  • Reflecting on her decision to leave Vogue, Karefa-Johnson is excited about what lies ahead. “I just hope that whatever comes to be of this career of mine is something that models possibilities for the next Gabriella Karefa-Johnson,” she explains. “I can't wait to take those tools and apply them in ways that are really just true to who I am, serve me and serve people who look like me.”


  • Karefa-Johnson is passionate about nurturing emerging talent and has used her network to support the development of Central Saint Martins graduate Torishéju Dumi. “It's very easy to feel invisible in these cities as a young designer, period. Full stop. But as a young black female designer, I knew that the hurdles she was up against would be exponentially bigger than some of her colleagues,” Karefa-Johnson says. “I wanted to be able to bridge the gap. I wanted to be able to give her a leg up, which I think in a lot of ways is something that has produced so many of the most enduring young designers.”


Additional Resources:



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Transcript

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0:00.0

Hi, this is Imran Ahmed, founder and CEO of the Business of Fashion.

0:08.4

Welcome to the Bof podcast. It's Friday, November 24th. In the dynamic world of fashion magazines,

0:15.5

Gabriella Karefa Johnson has always stood out. In 2021, she became the first black woman to style a cover for American Vogue.

0:24.2

Later that year, she worked on the cover shoot featuring U.S. Vice President Kamala Harris.

0:28.9

But recently, Gabriela decided to leave Vogue.

0:32.9

That resignation was something that was right for me at the time.

0:37.0

Still is right for me.

0:38.1

I'm excited to see what I'll do in the future, unattached to one specific brand and one

0:43.4

specific magazine.

0:44.9

And the truth of the matter is like anything else, you know, we grow and sometimes our containers

0:51.3

don't grow with us.

0:52.4

And so I am excited to build a new container for all of these ideas and this energy.

0:58.7

This week on the BOF podcast, Gabriela discusses why she resigned from Vogue

1:03.3

and how she is channeling her influence and energy to support the next generation of fashion talent.

1:09.5

Here's Gabriella Karefa Johnson on the BOF podcast.

1:15.4

Well, hello, Gabriella Carapha Johnson.

1:19.1

Welcome to the BOF podcast.

1:21.2

This is a conversation that has been long under discussion,

1:25.3

and we are finally here to have our showdown, low down, ho down.

1:33.3

It's such a pleasure to have you. How are you doing today? Thank you so much for having me.

1:37.7

I'm doing really well. I'm like, I can't believe we're halfway through the short season.

1:42.2

You know what I mean? We're about to be right back on the circuit.

...

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