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FT News Briefing

FT Weekend: Chef Mashama Bailey on reclaiming African-American food

FT News Briefing

Forhecz Topher

News, Daily News, News & Politics

4.41.3K Ratings

🗓️ 13 August 2022

⏱️ 32 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

For more FT Weekend content, including our special Food & Drink mini-series, search 'FT Weekend' where you listen to podcasts and subscribe there.

This week Lilah goes to Savannah, Georgia, to visit chef Mashama Bailey. Mashama recently won Outstanding Chef at the James Beard Awards. Since 2014, she has been chef and partner at The Grey, a restaurant located in a formerly segregated bus station. And she has been redefining American food by reclaiming its African-American roots. But because so much of this history hasn't been documented, how do you find and preserve it, and also expand on it? Mashama explains her creative process. We also speak with Stephen Satterfield, host of the Netflix docuseries High on the Hog. Stephen is the founder of Whetstone Media, which is dedicated to tracing food stories back to their roots of origin.


Want to say hi? We love hearing from you. We’re on Twitter @ftweekendpod, and Lilah is on Instagram and Twitter @lilahrap.


Links and mentions from the episode: 

Lilah’s written piece on Mashama in the FT Magazine: https://on.ft.com/3I8v4br 

Mashama and her business partner John O Morisano’s memoir about The Grey is called Black, White, and the Grey

Stephen is the founder of Whetstone Magazine and Whetstone Media. You can learn more at https://www.whetstonemagazine.com/

Whetstone Radio Collective has a suite of podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/channel/whetstone-radio/id6442689915

Dr Jessica B Harris’s seminal book on African-American food history is called High on the Hog: a Culinary Journey from Africa to America

Lilah also recommends Bryant Terry's 2021 cookbook Black Food, and the work of Michael W Twitty. Michael is on Instagram at @thecookinggene and has an excellent Masterclass session on tracing your roots through food

Mashama is on Instagram at @mashamabailey. Stephen is at @isawstephen


Special offers for FT Weekend listeners, from 50% off a digital subscription to a $1/£1/€1 trial can be found here: http://ft.com/weekendpodcast

Come join us at the FT Weekend festival in London on September 3rd! Buy a ticket at ft.com/ftwf. Here’s a special £20 off promo code: FTWFxPodcast22


Original music by Metaphor Music. Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner and Sam Giovinco.


Read a transcript of this episode on FT.com


Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Transcript

Click on a timestamp to play from that location

0:00.0

It's summer, and you know what that means. It's time for a plymoth gin and tonic.

0:07.0

So grab yourself a glass and some ice. Start with a pourer of plymoth gin, which is distilled

0:13.6

using a blend of seven botanicals. Add in some tonic, then finish with a slice of

0:19.5

orange. Now that is the perfect gin and tonic.

0:25.0

Plymoth gin, distilled with care and craft in England since 1793.

0:32.0

This white and blue glass is called vitrolite. It's March, and I'm in Savannah, Georgia, outside

0:44.2

of the famed restaurant, The Gray. The managing partner, John O'Morosano, is showing me around.

0:50.0

The first things we wanted to do was put the facade back to what it was, except that no one makes vitrolite anymore.

0:57.0

John was white. He's got a handlebar mustache, and glasses, and tattoos. He looks like a hipster from New York.

1:04.0

What's he is? From the street, the building looks like a vintage diner, with shiny, curved windows.

1:11.0

And this was a segregated lunch counter called the Union News Cafe.

1:17.0

To walk through the doors and pass the kitchen on the right, then the restaurant opens into a beautiful, high-ceiling, art-deco dining room.

1:26.0

Its centerpiece is a sunken, curved, eat-at-bar. It feels grand.

1:31.0

The bus terminal was the first fully air-conditioned bus terminal in the south.

1:35.0

We keep going across the dining room into the back. The back is small and cramped. It has low ceilings.

1:42.0

The server station is back here, and the bathrooms. If you didn't know the history of the space, you probably wouldn't remember it.

1:49.0

And then we walk through, and we come to sort of the darkest part of the history of the space, which is the colored waiting room.

1:58.0

And that was the colored women's room, and the colored men's room.

2:03.0

The building was once a segregated Greyhound bus station, from 1938 to 1964.

2:10.0

It's a building with a lot of history, and Jono knows it well. He bought it nine years ago, and he spent years restoring it.

2:18.0

But today, it's home to one of America's most important black chefs. One of its most important chefs, period.

2:25.0

Hi, nice to see you again.

...

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