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The Audio Long Read

From the archive: Has wine gone bad?

The Audio Long Read

The Guardian

Society & Culture

4.32.4K Ratings

🗓️ 4 May 2022

⏱️ 42 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

We are raiding the Audio Long Read archives to bring you some classic pieces from years past, with new introductions from the authors. This week, from 2018: ‘Natural wine’ advocates say everything about the modern industry is ethically, ecologically and aesthetically wrong – and have triggered the biggest split in the wine world for a generation. By Stephen Buranyi. Help support our independent journalism at theguardian.com/longreadpod

Transcript

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0:48.2

Hi, my name is Stephen Barany. I've been writing for the Longread since 2017.

0:52.2

It's been about five years and this is a piece that I wrote in 2018 titled

0:57.2

Has Wine Gone Bad about natural wine.

1:00.4

And the reason I wanted to write this piece was because at the time and indeed up until now

1:06.5

you cannot have failed to notice the number of bars and restaurants and bottle shops selling

1:12.0

what is known as natural wine.

1:14.7

And this differs from traditional wine in a variety of ways that can be hard to define,

1:20.4

but I think most people know it when they see it.

1:23.3

It tends to be a little juicier.

1:25.1

It might taste a little bit dirtier, but it seems to be quite obviously made with less intervention from the wine maker

1:32.8

and seems to sort of go along with this long-term trend of more artisanal, more hands-on,

1:38.9

less intervention, organic, local, whatever you might want to call it.

1:43.4

And so at the time I was an avid drinker of natural wine and traditional wine,

1:47.5

anyway, and really, but there was also an enormous sort of swirling controversy around natural wine

...

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