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Welcome to the Guardian Longread, showcasing the best long-form journalism,

covering culture, politics and new thinking.

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This long read contains graphic descriptions of a deceased child

that some listeners may find distressing.

Food fraud and counterfeit cotton, the detectives untangling the global supply chain.

By Summuth Subramanian,

read by Raj Ghatak and produced by Esther Apokugeni and Joleen Goffin.

Five years ago, the textile giant Welspun found itself mired in a scandal that hinged on a single word.

Egyptian.

At the time, Welspun was manufacturing more than 45 metres of cotton sheets every year,

...