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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Project, The Nugget, Lattice Training, Alpine Climbing, Climbing, Sports, Climbing Nugget, Self-improvement, Sport Climbing, Rock Climbing, Smith Rock, Careless, The Nugget Climbing Podcast, Bouldering, Gold, Dirtbag State Of Mind, Thenuggetclimbing, Fitness, Training Beta, Wilderness, Runout, Nuggetclimbing, Steven Dimmitt, Steven Dimmit, Training, Nugget Podcast, Climbing History, American, Nugget, The, Nugget Climbing Podcast, The Climbing Nugget, Struggle, Climbing Podcast, The American Climbing Project, The Nugget Climbing, Climbing Gold, Climb, Power Company, Yosemite, Enormocast, Health & Fitness, Lattice, @Thenuggetclimbing, Climber, Dirtbag Diaries, Alex Honnold, Climbing Training, Testpiece, The Struggle Climbing Show, Education, Trad Climbing, Talk, The Struggle, For The Love Of Climbing, Training For Climbing, Dirtbag, Sharp End, Nugget Climbing

4.0589 Ratings

🗓️ 8 April 2023

⏱️ 38 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Matt Heyliger is back on the podcast and joins me to talk about my bicep tendon injury back in December in Hueco, my rehab process, and how I was able to get back to climbing V10 in less than three months. We discuss the different stages of recovery, using BFR as part of my rehab, how to make the transition back to training, and how I am currently training for an upcoming bouldering trip to Magic Wood and Rocklands. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:31:47. patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Matt’s Original Episode: EP 143: Matt Heyliger

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hello, friends. Welcome back to the Nugget Climbing Podcast. This is your host, Stephen Dimmit.

0:08.1

My friend Matt Heiliger is back on the podcast today. This is a follow-up episode. The way that

0:13.5

follow-ups work is these are bonus episodes that are available for patrons who support the Nugget

0:19.1

Climbing podcast for $5 per month or more on Patreon.

0:23.4

I'm going to give you a free teaser here today. That's what you're listening to right now.

0:28.4

And the full version is available right now. If you sign up for Patreon for $5 per month,

0:34.3

you'll get access to all of the follow-ups that I've done, close to 50 of them,

0:39.1

with more coming all the time. And you also get ad-free episodes for the regular podcast

0:44.3

and more goodies. You can check out all of that and learn more at patreon.com slash the nugget

0:50.4

climbing. But yeah, so today's episode is really just an update on me with some

0:57.4

really great input from Matt along the way. I've talked about this a couple times on the

1:02.3

podcast here and there, but I had a pretty serious injury back in December right after getting

1:09.4

to Waco tanks. I partially tore my bicep tendon in my right arm.

1:14.8

It ended up being a grade two tear, which we explain in more detail in this episode.

1:21.8

But yeah, I've talked about it a little bit here and there. I've alluded to it, but I haven't

1:25.3

shared the full story. So this episode is my

1:30.1

full story of my injury and how I rehabbed it and was able to get back to 100% within a few

1:37.4

months. Matt was a huge part of that. I mean, the key part of that. He is such a good physical therapist and he helped me through

1:45.7

all of the steps. And he's been especially helpful with that last phase of recovering from an

1:51.3

injury, which is how do I get back to my sport? How do I get back to climbing hard and getting back

1:57.0

to doing the thing that I loved? And even doing the thing that hurt me in the first place

2:03.1

with confidence and not being afraid that I'm going to injure myself again. So that's what we

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