Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

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4.0 • 589 Ratings

🗓️ 9 May 2022

⏱️ 32 minutes

🔗️ Recording | iTunes | RSS

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Summary

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:21:47.

Transcript

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0:00.0	Hello, my friends. Welcome to the Nugget Climbing podcast. This is Stephen. And today's a little
0:08.1	different than usual. I usually put out a normal episode every single Monday. I've been sick for the
0:13.5	past few days. Testing negative for COVID so far, thankfully, but I haven't been feeling well and
0:20.1	haven't had the energy to work on this
0:21.9	week's episode. So I decided to publish a follow-up episode with Joe today that I was planning
0:27.4	on publishing later this week. So you guys at least have something to listen to on your
0:32.1	commutes to work this Monday morning. And we should be back to our normal schedule starting next week.
0:39.4	But yeah, if you guys haven't heard my episode with Joe Kinder, we did our first episode
0:43.8	back in the fall, episode 96, I believe, after his ascent of Kinder Cakes.
0:50.4	That was his first ascent of the first 515 in Rifle, Colorado.
0:55.0	And in that conversation, we talked about one of his next projects that he was psyched to try called Mamma Jama out in the Utah Hills.
1:04.0	And for pretty much all of April this year, I linked up with Joe and climbed with him out in the Utah Hills and supported him
1:11.8	on Mammajama and ended up getting to belay him on the send and watching him send his project. So
1:17.2	we actually recorded this follow-up on our second to last day climbing together. We recorded it at
1:23.0	the cliff. It was a crazy, wild, windy, stormy day. You can actually hear the wind just ripping in the background.
1:30.0	We're just like tucked into the back of this little cave trying to stay sheltered from the wind.
1:35.2	It was super fun.
1:36.5	We talked all about Joe's process on the route.
1:39.4	If you guys are sport climbers, this is a really cool opportunity to hear how a 515 climber goes about
1:46.8	projecting a hard route. So we really got into the details of that. And we also talked about a
1:52.6	bunch of things that I learned from Joe in the past like five weeks of climbing with him.
1:58.0	A lot of little tricks I picked up. I asked him about some of the strategies
	...

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